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  • Dual Battery System Problems

    Folks:

    I installed a second battery this winter on my Mako 17. I installed it with a Perko 1-2-All-Off switch. The boat will start fine on battery No. 2, but on battery No. 1, I cannot get the engine to turn over. I just replaced the No. 1 battery, thinking this might be the problem, but no luck. I may be wired wrong. Can anyone explain to me how the batteries should be wired so I can check to make sure I have done it right?

    Currently, the negative from No. 2 goes to the engine starter and a second negative goes to the negative terminal battery No. 1. Postive terminals are wired to the switch. What am I doing wrong? Thanks much.

    Chris
    White Stone, VA

  • #2
    quote:


    Currently, the negative from No. 2 goes to the engine starter and a second negative goes to the negative terminal battery No. 1. Postive terminals are wired to the switch. What am I doing wrong? Thanks much.



    You lost me on the neg cable.

    The neg cable should go from the engine block and to the neg terminal on the battery as you said your #2 battery is wired.

    There should be a jumper cable. From batt#1 neg to batt #2 neg.

    Usually the neg cable from batt #1 goes to the motor block, as Batt #1 is usually the cranking batt.

    This is nit picking, but you get the idea.

    The cranking batt. Were going to call it #1 pos cable goes to the switch in position #1. Batt #2 the pos cable goes to the switch for position #2.

    The output cable goes to the starter solinoid pos connection.

    Here's some reading:

    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...terysystem.htm

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    • #3
      Thanks. That's exactly how I have it wired. But when I try to start on batt 1, I the starter will click, but it does not seem like it is getting enough power to start. With batt 2, no problem. Batt 1 is brand new today.
      White Stone, VA

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      • #4
        swap the positive wires around on the switch. and see if battery 1 will crank the boat. had the same problem happen with the same switch. changing the switch cured it. you may have a little corrosion built up in the switch causing a voltage drop. it will show continuity on a multimeter but when loaded down (high amperege draw) will drop the voltage too low to crank the boat.
        Grant[br]87 21b 97 Suzuki DT200[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23633[br]New Orleans, LA[br][email protected]

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        • #5
          Ive seen that a few times. if it is the switch. replace it with a blue sea model. it is a much better switch and it will fit the same hole pattern.
          Tampa/St.Augustine FL[br]retired: T.A. Mahoney Co.[br]Full time student Flagler College[br]

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          • #6
            maybe this will help

            http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache...&hl=en&start=1
            Slim[br]Lafayette [br]1973 19-6 Aquasport[br]An a few Makos[br]

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            • #7
              Chris, I've got a switch if you need one. $15 to ClassicMako and it's yours.
              Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]

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              • #8
                Are both the batteries the same size? I.e. is one a cranking battery and is one a deep cycle? I had a similar problem with mine, but it would only start in the all position and turned out to be the stator and not a battery problem. Just something to think about if re-wiring doesn't help.
                1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                1985 Mako 20c - sold
                Fort Walton Beach, FL
                http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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