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  • Unsuccessful first time out!

    Well, we took her out today for the first time but had some problems. The motor appeared to be running fine b4 she went in the water but when I tried to get up and go she wouldn't. [!]. When the motor is out of gear I can rev it up past 4k rpm but today while under load she wouldn't even get on plane and I couldn't get the engine past 2k rpm? Not sure what could cause this. Fuel line size? I replaced it with 5/8" recently, equal to what was on there b4 and they were running a 94' 200 evinrude. I think I just need to take it to the shop and have it looked at real good so I can get a reference point while doing maintenance. Any thoughts?
    Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

  • #2
    Did you have that prop I lent you on it? Did you ever figure out the size and pitch?

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    • #3
      Yes, I did have the prop you lent me but never figured out what size and pitch the prop needed to be. Even so shouldn't the rpm's still be up there regardless?
      Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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      • #4
        Just found out from the previous owner of the motor the following: Hmmm, may have found the problem!

        "Have you checked the fuel pump. It went bad,I limped home at 2000 rpm's, I had negus put a new one one, then told them to take the new one off when I bought myself a new(used) motor, but they might have forgot. I DID NOT pay for a new fuel pump. What you described it what happened with me when the pump went bad."
        Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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        • #5
          Hopefully that will fix it. Good luck!

          Mark
          Pensacola, Fl.

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          • #6
            Mark, let me know when you do your stringers. I would like to come watch!
            Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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            • #7
              From what you described it could also be dirty main jets in the carbs. The test for a bad fuel pump is to have a buddy pump the primer while you bring it up on plane. Its worth while to clean the carbs anyway. There a fairly simple carb. dave
              [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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              • #8
                Thanks Dave, will give that a try b4 I replace it. Did you get your socket back?
                Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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                • #9
                  Not yet but remember I am in Podunk Mi. Takes a while to get anything here (exept bills) dave/.
                  [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Will that test work with a VRO fuel pump? The guy I bought it from said if it wasn't a VRO pump then that was my problem but after speaking with a mechanic it looks like a VRO pump.
                    Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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                    • #11
                      Tried the pump ball test but it did nothing. I am not sure where to go next. Tomorrow I am replacing the water/fuel seperator filter and the line that goes from it to the motor with the ball and the fuel filter b4 I start getting into the carbs. I did notice today that no matter how much we pumped the ball we couldn't the fuel filter filled up! Isn't the fuel filter supposed to stay full once pumped up? Also the ball wasn't staying hard. Each time we went to pump it wasn't hard and it took about 3 pumps to get it there.

                      Any advice on where to go next would be appreciated.
                      Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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                      • #12
                        Troy,

                        I use to have an early 80's model 235 Rude and had similar problems as you are having. I forgot where I read it, but apparantly the early model high HP Rude's had an questionable fuel pump on them and caused problems. They wouldn't pump enough gas and would cause the bulb to go soft and even had the motor stall out, especially coming out of full throttle to neutral.

                        A similar situation, I have a problem getting the bulb to prime everytime I would empty the fuel/water seperator. It would take darn near forever to finally get it to work. I haven't resolved that problem yet.
                        Steven[br]1978 Powercat 232[br]One flat broke, the other almost ready to float!!![br]Atlanta, GA

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                        • #13
                          If it were me I would clean those carbs. I know its intimadating with 6 carbs. It is a simple carb and once you do one you will be a expert. You can reuse the gaskits as there o-ring type. You need to pay attention to all the little holes and jets. Take the plates off the side of the carbs and clean there also. Also do a reality check and make sure its hitting on all 6 holes. You can use a pair of insulated plyers and pull off each spark plug one at a time and listen for a diference in the engine noise. Report back after that test. dave.
                          [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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                          • #14
                            First, obvious is fuel and delivery system, carb for gummed jets.

                            If OMC, check out the POWER PACKS.

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                            • #15
                              So far I have done the following:

                              Replaced the fuel/water seperator filter

                              Replaced the fuel/ball line from the filter

                              Replaced the fuel filter

                              I still noticed the ball is losing stiffness even while idling. Dave, next was to clean the carbs. I bought some carb cleaner in a spray can. Can I clean them without taking them off the engine?

                              I read in my book where I can test the fuel pump by removing the fuel line from the pump to the carbs, grounding the spark plug wires so it doesn't spark then turning the motor over several times and see how much fuel is being pumped. How do I know how much is enough?

                              I also read where there is a check valve. THey said if this valve was bad it could cause stalling, rough idling and not allowing it to reach max rpm's at full throttle. This sounds like what mine is doing. I can't find this check valve. They say to take a syringe with a piece of clear tubing filled with alcohol and insert it into the input side, if alcohol flows its good that way, then remove it and put it into the drain side, if it doesn't flow it is good. Do you know where this check valve is?

                              I didn't know fuel pumps were so expensive! $160 for the one that doesn't pump oil, VRO type. I didn't buy one yet because I want to make sure that is the problem. Any other tests I can run to determine a fuel pump problem?
                              Troy[br]Pensacola, FL[br]1977 21\' Mako Deep V[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20954

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