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yamaha 115 1986

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  • yamaha 115 1986

    went out for a day on the water and all was good until I anchored up for a beach walk. Returned to boat and engine would not torn over as if it was dead. After fooling around with the obvious appears the engine is stuck in forward and will not shift to neutral or reverse keeping the engine from turning over.

    Had noticed a trip before was grinding a little when shifting to reverse.

    How do I go about adjusting the shift cable which is what I assume is the issue.

    Do I have to drop the lower unit to do the repair. If so what parts, tools do I need.

    Not much fun running 224 with only one 115hp operating.
    1986 Mako 224 twin 1986 Yamaha 115\'s - repowered with 2005 200 Yamaha HPDI[br]

  • #2
    I will bet money that your shift rod has broken off. Very common in those older Yamahas.
    1987 Mako 254, 2013 Evinrude ETEC 175\'s (sold to my buddy)[br]1988 Mako 20, 2008 Yamaha 200HPDI (sold)[br]1984 Mako 17, 2005 Suzuki 115 (sold)[br]1981 Mako 21 (sold)[br]1978 Mako 17 (sold)[br]1986 Mako 260 (sold)[br]1997 Mako 232 (sold)[br]Tampa, Florida

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    • #3
      I second that. Look down the length of the motor to see where the rod is visable at the lower motor mount. You should be able to see where the rod goes into the lower unit. With a pair of needle nose pliers wiggle the rod to see if it is in more than one piece.

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      • #4
        If this is the problem, what do I need to do to make the repair
        1986 Mako 224 twin 1986 Yamaha 115\'s - repowered with 2005 200 Yamaha HPDI[br]

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        • #5
          I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but unless you are very mechanically inclined and can do the work yourself, this is probably the end for that motor. Those older, pre saltwater series, Yamahas typically corroded very badly. The powerhead must come off, and more than likely some, if not all, of the bolts holding the powerhead on are fused in place. Bust all the bolts off, then drill and tap all of the busted off bolts to reassemble.
          1987 Mako 254, 2013 Evinrude ETEC 175\'s (sold to my buddy)[br]1988 Mako 20, 2008 Yamaha 200HPDI (sold)[br]1984 Mako 17, 2005 Suzuki 115 (sold)[br]1981 Mako 21 (sold)[br]1978 Mako 17 (sold)[br]1986 Mako 260 (sold)[br]1997 Mako 232 (sold)[br]Tampa, Florida

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          • #6
            quote:


            Originally posted by Empress III


            I second that. Look down the length of the motor to see where the rod is visable at the lower motor mount. You should be able to see where the rod goes into the lower unit. With a pair of needle nose pliers wiggle the rod to see if it is in more than one piece.



            The early Yamahas used a steel shift rod and sometimes they lasted a good amount of time, other failed within a short time. In order to do the repair you need to pull the powerhead. If everything is in order and no corroded bolts, it can be done in about an hour (with the proper tools and lift, I just did my V6 today). After the powerhead is off, it's a real quick fix. At the dealer this is a rather expensive job.

            D-
            Current Mqko - 1990 Mako 211 w/2006 250 E-TEC. http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6226. [br]- Previous Makos 1987 20C, 1979 23\' IB, 1970s 17 Angler

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            • #7
              Unfortunately, I'm sure these guys have the problem nailed.

              Yams of that era (including mine) absolutely SUCK in regards to corrosion. Light years behind OMC and I'm sure Merc. We pulled our powerheads off four years ago to replace wrist pins and it was a royal f'n nightmare. A week long ordeal with myself, my engineer father, and a very good machinist/mechanic friend. In comparison, I pulled the powerhead off our '87 110 rude by myself in about an hour and a half.

              Those rods are carbon steel, ours were down to less than 3/16" in some places from maybe 3/8 when fresh.

              Good luck....
              1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]

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