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  • Sealing Live well

    On the heels of this nor'easter, I have decided to take Bob's advice and seal my livewell.

    Originally, I was going to buy an Armstrong 10x20, but with the potential issue of floor thickness being uneven and causing install problems (cant recall who experienced this), I think it may be easier to simply seal in my existing access hatch and plug up the thru-hull for the intake.

    I can live with no access to the livewell.

    So, with that said, Bob recommended I dry out the well, clean up the edges of the well and the hatch, apply plenty of 5200, and stick the hatch down with a cinder block on top for a number of days while it cures.

    Afterwards I'd apply a layer of silicone around the groove to ensure it's flush w/ the deck and to further retard water.

    So, my questions are this:

    1) If I want to go back and install an Armstrong Hatch next winter, how hard do you think it would be to get that old hatch out?

    2) Should I install a garboard plug in the transom where the current livewell fitting is, or will a standard rubber 'screw plug' work for the time being?

    3) Does anyone see any problem with the procedure as outlined above, or have a solution they prefer?

    Not 2nd guessing you Bob---just wanted to hear if anyone had installed an armstrong hatch in a situation like this, and whether I should opt for the garboard plug...
    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

  • #2
    I'd install it with 3M 101 to bed it and then a thin layer of 4200 Fast.

    You will be able to run a razor knife around it to cut thru the 4200, then pry it up and the 101 will release.

    A little bit of for throught goes a long way down the road.[]

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    • #3
      Justin,

      Warthog is probably right. you may want to take it out someday... although I can't imagine why.

      I wish I had sealed mine up too!

      Sealing that live well up and having my bilge pump thru hulls mounted higher on the hulls are two things I'd like to do over....

      Bob
      Bob Carpenter [br] Maine[br]1969 Boston Whaler 13\' (Annie3 1/2) [br]Built Annie2 and Annie3 which can be seen in The Project pages[br]

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      • #4
        Wart,

        You think that will be more than sufficient to keep the water out right?

        Bob,

        I think the closed transom GREATLY reduces the need to seal your livewell. On mine, I think as it stands now it poses a considerable and untenable safety hazard...
        ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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        • #5
          You can also put in a peice of monofilament all the way around the sealing bead with a tag end easy to get to. If/when you get ready to pull the hatch, find the tag end and give it a pull. Someone posted that technique a while back for sealing the hatch for the fuel tank. Should work the same.
          Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]

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          • #6
            Yep, Same as sealing a tank hatch.

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            • #7
              I wouldn't seal it up permanently. What if you go to sell the boat? Sure a livewell that you don't have to bend down to would be nice, but I personally like my in-deck livewell and haven't had any issues with mine. I've had the deck mounted livewell and hated the space it took up. No way would I trade for that again. I would follow Wart's advice and use the 4200. The fishing line is a great idea as long as someone can't pull it up accidentally!
              1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
              1985 Mako 20c - sold
              Fort Walton Beach, FL
              http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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              • #8
                sure but there's been a rash of people in here lately about problems with their in floor livewell overflowing from the inside out. The one I had in mine is now completely covered up by the new floor. If I ever need it, it will be for storage. I'll just take a saw, cut an opening, and drop in a hatch.
                Steven[br]1978 Powercat 232[br]One flat broke, the other almost ready to float!!![br]Atlanta, GA

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                • #9
                  May I sugust 3m 4000uv. it doesnt yellow and will come off later with a little effort. It makes a very nice beed.dave
                  [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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                  • #10
                    quote:


                    Originally posted by HungOne


                    sure but there's been a rash of people in here lately about problems with their in floor livewell overflowing from the inside out. The one I had in mine is now completely covered up by the new floor. If I ever need it, it will be for storage. I'll just take a saw, cut an opening, and drop in a hatch.



                    That happens when the pump is pumping more water than the outflow valve. It only took me a couple of tried to figure out that how much to open the seacock and closing the drain valve to get it just right. I can now catch bait and run with only a very little change in the water level. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have a livewell built into a closed transom, but I was never happy with a deck mounted well.
                    1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                    1985 Mako 20c - sold
                    Fort Walton Beach, FL
                    http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My concern revolves around the lack of a good seal in the hatch, and the fact that the hatch can float away because it's not attached to the deck. If the boat gets swamped repeatedly and/or that livewell somehow fills up when the boat is unattended, it's just asking for trouble.

                      I dont want to risk it.
                      ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                      • #12
                        I have just bought a 79 25'Mako the live well is not hooked up, the plubbling is there, valve comming out of the bottom of hull and hole in the live well the pump is just daingling in the compartment under the access panel in front of the engine? there is the hose going from the well to a valve exiting the aft end of the transom, also a pvc stand pipe that was in the compartment and another pvc pipe with holes in it? I cant quite picture how the system should operate. any help guys
                        Time Flies 79 25\' mako Marathon Florida

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                        • #13
                          Time Flies .. Does your boat have the livewell in the motor well?
                          Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]

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                          • #14
                            this live well is in the floor forward of the fish box and aft of he rocket launcher, when you pull up the cover forward of the outboard you can see the back side of the well and where the valves are, dont know if the pump screws into the valve comming out of the bottom of the hull or what?
                            Time Flies 79 25\' mako Marathon Florida

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                            • #15
                              Rude - Great idea about using the mono to cutout a hatch or gas cover. Well I guess that what this site is all about - Thanks -

                              Mike
                              1973 22 CC Milford, CT USA[br]

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