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  • Power tilt motor siezed up

    Here we go again. Old boat new problems. But I guess thats half the fun of olding a classic. I've been waiting for my Power tilt motor to sieze up for a little while now. It was severely corroded when I bought the boat but worked fine. Tonight when I put my boat in the water I couldn't get the motor in the water. I'm just curious about how much something like that costs and if anyone knows where I could find something like that. Its a 1992 88hp johnson. Thank you for any input recieved.
    panama city, Fl[br]1978 mako 17

  • #2
    Here is what you do.......get a hammer and have a friend push the switch at the same time tap the base of the motor with the hammer. Do not hold down the switch if it does not go on the first try as you could burn up the relay. 90% of the time this works. The motor may not even be bad. The trim motors OMC used always got nasty looking when used in salt water. The last time I had to use that procedure was about 3 years ago and I am still on the same trim motor and it hasn't acted up since. (NOCK ON WOOD)

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    • #3
      On Johnsons of that year, the the housings of the tilt pump motors were typically painted iron/steel housings. The problem is that the housing rusts through over time and when enough of it has rusted out, the magnets fall (attract) into the armature and obviously it can't turn after that.

      These are extremely easy to change (though they will cost upward of $90). The tilt hydraulics have a manual release so you can tilt the engine up out of the way. The hydraulic motor usually has 4 philips-head screws holding it on the pump. The pump is likely ok. These are usually aluminum with a stainless half-moon shaft that the motor will mate with.

      The new pump motor will be in a graphite housing. Simply unscrew the 4 screws (you might need a 90degree screw driver to accomplish this...or a scew driver). Clean off the shaft attachment and surrounding area of the pump. You'll likely get a fresh gasket with the new motor. Make sure that the assembly goes back together free of water, salt, and dirt. It doesn't hurt to spritz it with a bit of WD40 before assembly.

      Screw down the new motor and run the wires to the appropriate relay, and your done (following the old wiring path). It's a quick repair.

      Remember you can adjust the tilt manually with the screw release(usually on port side...you'll need a long screwdriver to engage it).

      Hope this helps.

      -Pat.
      18ft MonArk tri-hull: 140HP Mercruiser Alpha One - still in pieces...to be continued[br](I know it\'s not a Mako, but hey, its mine!)[br] Time\'s fun when you\'re having flies![br]president/hostmaster:[br]P.Ring Technologies[br]Cornerstone IT, LLC[br]LOUISIANA WEB HOST, LLC.[br]CompTIA Certified Professional A+/Network+ // Microsoft Registered Partner

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      • #4
        I agree with cyclops....the new graphite housing is the way to go if you plan on keeping the motor. It is easy to change. If you beat the motor casing you might make the magnets fall off. I would take it off and inspect it. Sometimes the brushes are worn or the armature is dirty and needs to be cleaned. Hope this helps, Tony
        79 Mako 23[br]85 Wellcraft 18 fisherman[br]Hammond, La.

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        • #5
          Thank you for all the great advice. I'm going to replace it tommorow with a new graphite motor so I can enjoy over the weekend. Hope you all have a great memorial day weekend as well.
          panama city, Fl[br]1978 mako 17

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          • #6
            I had the exact same problem last time out with a early 90's 225 do you think I could be looking at the same proplem (magnet on hold housing)
            Steve Glasgow[br]Lake Worth Fl.[br]74 22B

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:


              Originally posted by gettight


              I had the exact same problem last time out with a early 90's 225 do you think I could be looking at the same proplem (magnet on hold housing)



              Very possible as the older electric motors rusted out. The new ones won't.
              The one I replaced was on a 1991 225HP Johnson.

              Everyone thought that it was the switch because it would tilt sometimes and not others and it "SEEMED" to be with how hard the person pressed the tilt button on the throttle toggle. Though the interaction was coincidental, and between the previous owner and my father, the button was broken from pressing too hard. Replacement of the button didn't help though in the scheme of things. The relays checked out fine as well. But, when I looked closely at the motor, I could see that the housing had rusted through. When I poked it with a screwdriver it just crumbled. So, I did the obvious.

              -Pat.
              18ft MonArk tri-hull: 140HP Mercruiser Alpha One - still in pieces...to be continued[br](I know it\'s not a Mako, but hey, its mine!)[br] Time\'s fun when you\'re having flies![br]president/hostmaster:[br]P.Ring Technologies[br]Cornerstone IT, LLC[br]LOUISIANA WEB HOST, LLC.[br]CompTIA Certified Professional A+/Network+ // Microsoft Registered Partner

              Comment


              • #8
                Hay Pat, I have a good used power tilt/trim complete unit for your mercruiser on the shelf. If you ever need it let me know. I would sell it to you cheep. No rust/corrosion. dave.
                [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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                • #9
                  quote:


                  Originally posted by michigan dave


                  Hay Pat, I have a good used power tilt/trim complete unit for your mercruiser on the shelf. If you ever need it let me know. I would sell it to you cheep. No rust/corrosion. dave.



                  Hey Dave,

                  I just put a new trim pump in last year (the original one was from 1978 and dyeing. I got a great deal on a brand new one on eBay (usual retail ~$800...I paid $200).
                  The only thing I might need though would be new rams. Though mine are working now, they are really corroding alot. I figure it's a matter of time for them. Only hold up on my getting new ones is since I have an Alpha One foot and a 1978 transom plate and gimbal, I had to have the rams machined to a shorter length. I am, however, looking into the idea of replacing the rest of the gimbal and then a bit later putting a new transom plate (hopefully making it all homogenous as Alpha One).

                  -Pat.
                  18ft MonArk tri-hull: 140HP Mercruiser Alpha One - still in pieces...to be continued[br](I know it\'s not a Mako, but hey, its mine!)[br] Time\'s fun when you\'re having flies![br]president/hostmaster:[br]P.Ring Technologies[br]Cornerstone IT, LLC[br]LOUISIANA WEB HOST, LLC.[br]CompTIA Certified Professional A+/Network+ // Microsoft Registered Partner

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Gee I was gona ask 75 bucks for the unit. When the time comes for your gimbal/transom adventure let me help you find a clean freshwater doner boat for you to use as a parts unit. I see them at the dealers once in a while. Those transom plates rot out and cause a problem for you salt water folks. I have thrown away a half dozen of them over the years because of no need. Its to the point where I dont even cut them out of the transom anymore when I dismantle a boat. Heck I even sent the last one to the landfill with good rams on it. BTW I have some good old style (pre-alpha) rams you could have for 15 bucks each. "little dusty but NEVER rusty" dave.
                    [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The strange thing about my situation is my tilt and trim is not that badly corroded and it has work perfectly since the day i got it and all of a sudden like some one flicked a switch it will do nothing. The day it quit working I was on a trip with the family on the inter-coastal and all was fine until I ran out of gas and motor died. After refilling from auxillary tanks (2 6 gallon gas cans) the motor would not turn over...nothing when i hit the switch so i pulled the cowling off and crossed the 2 post on the solenoid to see if the motor would turn over and it fired instantly after getting back under way i tried to trim the motor and it would not work. First thing I thought was the switch at the control was bad (since it had been flaky in the past mostly sticking from time to time) when i returned to the boat ramp i tried the trim switch on the motor and still nothing. I am thinkin that maybe I have some electrical gremlin since the trim not working coincides with the ignition switch problems however I am not ruling out 2 seperate problems accuring together.
                      Steve Glasgow[br]Lake Worth Fl.[br]74 22B

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        steve, look on the harness under the motor cover. there should be 1 or 2 fuse holders on it. they look just like connectors so they may be a little hard to identify. one or both (if you have 2) has a 30 amp fuse in it. this is the main power supply to the motor. sometimes they will also put the trim motor on the same circuit. i had this happen to me on some rough seas. the guy that owned the boat before me put aluminum foil in it rather than replace the fuse. it killed EVERYTHING when the foil broke.
                        Grant[br]87 21b 97 Suzuki DT200[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23633[br]New Orleans, LA[br][email protected]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          quote:


                          Originally posted by michigan dave


                          Gee I was gona ask 75 bucks for the unit. When the time comes for your gimbal/transom adventure let me help you find a clean freshwater doner boat for you to use as a parts unit. I see them at the dealers once in a while. Those transom plates rot out and cause a problem for you salt water folks. I have thrown away a half dozen of them over the years because of no need. Its to the point where I dont even cut them out of the transom anymore when I dismantle a boat. Heck I even sent the last one to the landfill with good rams on it. BTW I have some good old style (pre-alpha) rams you could have for 15 bucks each. "little dusty but NEVER rusty" dave.



                          Dang! That would have been a great price! Only problem was last year my 25 year-old pump up and quit pumping. Anyway, I'll be in the market for an Alpha One bell-housing and Alpha One rams real soon (after I finish the riser project). What do you think you can do for me there?

                          Thanks,

                          Pat.
                          18ft MonArk tri-hull: 140HP Mercruiser Alpha One - still in pieces...to be continued[br](I know it\'s not a Mako, but hey, its mine!)[br] Time\'s fun when you\'re having flies![br]president/hostmaster:[br]P.Ring Technologies[br]Cornerstone IT, LLC[br]LOUISIANA WEB HOST, LLC.[br]CompTIA Certified Professional A+/Network+ // Microsoft Registered Partner

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I will start looking for a donor boat. Thats the way to go for cheep parts. dave
                            [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well I got the new power tilt and trim motor but I can't say that my abilities on installing this beast are up to par. In fact I would be to ashamed to say what I did just to get the boat out on the water for the memorial day weekend. The three screws that held the old motor were so severely corroded they just crumbled when I put a screwdriver on them. There was no way I could get them out without removing the entire Power tilt and trim assembly. Problem number 2 occured when I tried to get the pin out that holds the piston from the hydraulic acutator to the motor. I heated it with a torch and tried a ten pound sledge with a brass punch. Wouldn't move. Torched it again and then tried a punematic chisel wouldn't budge. I'm sad to say that through my frustration and lack of thinking I'm going to need a whole new power tilt and trim assembly. Unless there is some sort of magic trick I'm going to have to remove the motor and a mounting bracket just to get that sucker out of there. Does anyone one know where I could get a used power tilt and trim assembly for a 1992 johnson 88hp for a decent price. I've been afraid to ask because just the little motor cost me $170.00
                              panama city, Fl[br]1978 mako 17

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