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what are those cushions?

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  • what are those cushions?

    what are those cushions called that run the inside side of the boat, right below the gunnel? They are usually in higher end boats.

    now that ive totally confused you all,including my self, here is a picture.



    the two pads in back of the bow rails.

    I'm stumped

    thanks

    Nate
    Bradenton, FL[br]1970 Mako 220[br][br]

  • #2
    Nathan,

    They are called cockpit bolsters. They are used to ease the slamming when trying to land fish and are also asthetic in appearance for those who like them
    Hugs Tug [br]2007 SteigerCraft 23\' Miami W/ 225 Suzuki[br]Former 1973, 23 Mako C/C with I/O[br]Mattituck[br]Long Island N.Y.

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    • #3
      thank you much.

      Now to see if i can find someone who makes them. A set of those would look killer.
      Bradenton, FL[br]1970 Mako 220[br][br]

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      • #4
        shop around. they come prefab in different lengths. Warthog probably has a link[]
        Past:[br]1988 Mako 230[br]1987 Mako 20C (best of them all)[br][br]1974 Mako 15[br]Miami, FL[br]

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        • #5
          Bolsters can be made pretty easilly...

          A good canvas shop can do them up in an afternoon.
          Capt Kevin ~~~><((((*>[br][br] 2520 MVSC \"Chesapeake Edition\"[br]Annapolis, Maryland[br]http://ClassicParker.com/

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          • #6
            Knotty! Call me, I am in Bowlies Creek south of you! I have some spair bracket for them and you can copy mine if you like, We have 3 canvas shops at our disposal with 10% off for members.

            Jim (941-355-4706
            June 2009 Bimini Fishing Extravaganza---------------------------------------------------------------[br][br]Photo by Martha Costa.................................. Photo By George Poveromo...........................[br][br]2005 Mainship 400 Swift Trawler, Twin 240 Yanmar\'s w/thruster [br]sales distributor of: 2010 11\' Bluewater Baby w/2011 25hp Tohatsu 4str.[br]dinghiesndavits.com [br]ex: 1975 20a Mako[br]ex: 1992 221 Mako[br]ex: 2000 George Poveromo Edition 282 Mako[br]ex: 2002 George Poveromo Edition 282 Mako[br]Sarasota / Bradenton Fl./Falmouth, Ma. Cape Cod / Andros Bahamas[br]Founding President www.ManasotaMako.com

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            • #7
              what would something like that cost to run the inside of the bow? is it by the foot?
              Bradenton, FL[br]1970 Mako 220[br][br]

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              • #8
                quote:


                Originally posted by knotty by nature


                what would something like that cost to run the inside of the bow? is it by the foot?



                Manasotamako--I'm curious about his too.
                ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                • #9
                  It is by the foot and I think I was quoted 25-40 bucks a foot.[:u]

                  So I made'em myself for @250 bucks in materials. From the very front of the bow to the transom door was 23ft per side. It was a fun project and they came out great. they absolutely change the fishing experience and quiet the hull down also, not to mention really pimping out the looks of the interior. I used a heat gun to bend the backing around the curve for the rear boxes so I've got continuous comfort(everyone leans into that corner when fishing). I'll give you a play by play with details if you guys are interested.
                  \'87 261 200 yamis[br]\'86 Actioncraft 130 yami[br]Palm Harbor,Fl

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                  • #10
                    Has there ever been a time we were not interested?[:x)][:x)]

                    We need to know the secrets Pete
                    John S.[br]Lutz, FL aka Tampa[br]Currently transplanted to Tallahassee

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                    • #11
                      Good answer John. Made me laugh

                      Dan
                      Dan[br]Pass Christian, Ms[br](currently in Slidell, La since that little thunderstorm in 05!)

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                      • #12
                        Yeah, I'd really like to see too. I'm assuming some vinyl over some foam, stapled to a board, then attached to the boat somehow?

                        Hell, if yours look good, I'd love to send you some cash to make me a small set (I want two 2 36" sections for my bow).
                        ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                        • #13
                          Justin, it would probably cost more to ship than if you did'em yourself.

                          400HP, you could swing over sometime and I'll show'em to you.

                          Anyhow, here goes.There are technical names for some of the parts that escape me now, if anyone knows'em, feel free.

                          I started with a 4x8 sheet of 1/4 inch expanded PVC(@50 bucks)It's sturdy, cheap, light, and easy to work with. If you've got a gap to bridge where the bolster does not have full contact with the gunwhale, you may want 3/8.

                          I cut the PVC into 7" by 8ft strips. This results in 3 sections on each side so you can remove/replace one if it gets damaged.

                          Lay each strip in place against the gunwhale and scribe a line that follows the hull contour from the backside. Number each strip so it goes back in the same spot, the two sides of the hull are not identical mirror images(heresy and blasphemy)

                          Figure out how wide you want your bolster, 6" is good if you've got the room. Lay the strip down so you can see your scribe and mark another line 6" from the first lengthwise down the strip. This gives the bolster a nice flowing look that follows the hull.

                          Use a jigsaw and cut along these lines. Round the corner SLIGHTLY and sand the cut edges to keep from piercing the vinyl later.

                          Lay the panels(they're not called strips anymore, baby, we're moving up in the world)in there respective places on the gunwhale and make sure they look right. Now's the time to get'em perfect. Leave 1/4 to 1/2 inch between panels to allow for the vinyl, too much and they'll be gappy, to snug and they'll be a pain to install. Now is also the time to get the heat gun and massage the panels to go around corners. It's trial and error, but the PVC will cooperate if you're patient.

                          With someone helping you hold them in place (or clamps) drill the mounting holes through the panels and into the hull. Hole size depends on the fastening system in that area. If you can through bolt, do it, if not there are awesome fasteners for that application. Drill the holes every 12-16 inches along the panels.

                          For thru bolting you use a blind nut (T nut) that pulls into the PVC and the screw goes through the nut from the inside of the panel out through the back. I used 1/4" pan head stainless machine screws for this part but I had to grind the nut thing down a bit, they're made for a thicker material. A little locktite will keep the screws tight forever.

                          For all the area that can't be through bolted they make a plastic thingy called a tree or "double ended christmas clip". There are some heavy duty models that hold like crazy. I'll post a pic of the ones I used for the bow area of my Mako, no movement after two seasons.

                          When you pick your foam padding, go a little softer than you think. I could explain that for an hour but I won't.

                          Cut the foam 1/4" wider than the panel all around. Use a long cheap cooks knife that you dragged across the grinder hastily. Keep it low to the foam and make long smooth slices. Spray glue and stick. Done.

                          The vinyl depends on your preferences. I used the standard pleated, padded white and it looks and wears great. Cut the vinyl in strips to wrap around the foamed panel and leave enough to overlap alittle in the back. You want to overlap the upper wrap over the lower wrap so water doesn't soak into the vinyl when you wash the boat.

                          Your end detail is also a personal preference. I chose to sew my corners and it was a pain. I tried several different styles and no one is better than the other. A web search will give you an idea of how it's done.

                          Don't forget to put grommets in the bottom of the vinyl for air to escape, one every three feet was enough. Attach the vinyl with short monel staples down the bottom of the panel stretching slightly as you go. then do the top(overlap the bottom), and the ends.

                          Piping on the top edges of the bolsters makes them look finished and takes two minutes. Do it.

                          Slap'em in and enjoy!

                          For those of you that made it this far in the story, I will add pics in the next few days.







                          Rubrail pic


                          \'87 261 200 yamis[br]\'86 Actioncraft 130 yami[br]Palm Harbor,Fl

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                          • #14
                            Love to see pics.
                            ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                            • #15
                              They look really good.
                              ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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