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  • Starboard

    Im toying with the idea of replacing my teak with starboard. What thickness do I need to use. Have heard 3/4" is necessary to keep it from bowing. Is anyone using 1/2"? The prices I got around here are 300+ for 1/2 and 450+ for 3/4" for full sheets.[] Does anyone know of somewhere with good prices in Stuart, Fl. Someone suggested gelcoating all the teak black for a simmilar look. Has anyone done this? Does it hold up? How much of a headache? Why has nobody made a kit with all the pieces for the models? I have to imagine that many of the models share the same hatches and rod holder trim.[]
    1987 231 with 200 Yamaha[br]Stuart, Fl

  • #2
    Don't do it!!!

    Teak is what separates us from the animals!

    I am in the process of adding MORE teak to my mako...

    2006 Northcoast 19[br]East Greenwich, RI


    • #3


      • #4
        The previous owner painted it brown it really looks bad. My last boat the owner painted white it took forever to strip and redo and still never looked perfect. I like the look of well done teak but when it is not done right it looks like garbage.
        1987 231 with 200 Yamaha[br]Stuart, Fl


        • #5
          Don't listen to them - Replace all the teak with Starboard! Did my '73 22 CC about 5 years ago and have never been sorry about the changeover - No maintance and I think it looks better (and that was after having alot of custom teak on the boat for 20 years). I used the light gray Starboard with a black and gray boot striping with a very light light gray bottom paint (Micron Shark White). I bought all my Starboard from a local plastics and Starboard shop in the sizes that I needed for each of the replacement pieces. He worked with me on buying scraps and cutoffs but the shop was local - down the street. I don't know what the whole job cost me but it was at least $1000 bucks, including the shop making me a CC hatch, radio box and mounting pad for under the CC. I used basically the thickness that was there for the Starboard replacement - only reinforcing the baitwell covers with 3/4 inch runners to stop them from sliding sideways and suddendly dumping me into the baitwell. See if you can get some scrap pieces and try working with the Starboard. Taht will tell you if you can do the job which will take a lot longer that you think. If you do not have a table router, table saw etc. (what I consider the standard woodworking tools) and are not good with these tools (carbide bits for all work) then you should stay with the teak.

          Just another point of view -

          1973 22 CC Milford, CT USA[br]


          • #6
            I am a starboard superfan!!

            One word - EASY
            1975 23\' Tampa,FL


            • #7
              If you want it to look the best and duplicate the original teak you need to use 3/4. I have seen plenty of boats done with 1/2 but it just looks chinsy. If you pull off your original teak you will see that it was made from 3/4 stock and cut so that it actually sits in the opening cut in the fiberglass so that it is flush with the fiberglass on the inside so there are no sharp edges on the inside. You also need to use the color Seafoam to get the proper match with Mako gellcoat.....white will not match as well.

              Here is some of my work.


              • #8
                Just my opinon. If you want to change to the Starboard, it will look the best in black.

                Look at mako224's trim on his console. The windshield frame is black, the steering wheel is black and the trim around the switch's is black. keeping in the same theme, all the other trim would have looked better in black.

                Now if you want to keep the Teak and have low maintance [and who doesn't] Then go the Siginature Finish "Honey Teak".


                • #9
                  I have measured all of my teak hatches, and it was all 1/2" (not including easily applied backing at the joints). So, I purchased 1/2" seafoam starboard...will be installing this weekend. I am in hope it wont look chinsy, and if there are bowing issues I'll thicken the contact points only with 1/4" of wood on the non-visible side; will follow up w/ pics.

                  BTW, agreed on the black around the console
                  ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]


                  • #10
                    I used 1/2 to replace all my teak this winter. Light Grey to match the newly powder coated windsheild frame. I found it pretty easy to work with, just cut slow and steady to avoid leaving saw marks. I basically traced the old teak and cut to match. To cover the fiberglass edges around the gunnels, I used a router and rabbiting bit to take about 1/4 inch off so it would overlap. The narrow strips are kinda flimsy, but as long as you drill as you go you can get it to sit tight to the fiberglass. I should have pics after this weekend. If I had to do it again I'd probably use 3/4 inch, but I think it came out well and not too chinsy.
                    Danny Facciola[br]1987 231 Suzuki 225[br]Edgewater, MD


                    • #11
                      What kind of prices are you finding for 3/4". Both plastic shops in town quoted me around $460 for a full sheet. This seemed high to me but this is the first time I was looking for a large project. I will be doing it in black. Just got my windshield back from powdercoating and it looks awsome. Cant wait to get my boat back from rigging so I can put it together. Hopefully have some pics up soon.[]
                      1987 231 with 200 Yamaha[br]Stuart, Fl


                      • #12
                        I love the look of teak, but I do not like the work it requires. I am currently converting my boat over from teak to starboard, but I am keeping my teak, just in case I sell the boat to someone who loves work wants to buy it. I grew up in a family with a large sailboat with teak decks and lots of varnished teak brightwork. Needless to say, I am not a fan of teak, but I'm biased based on the amount of work I put into teak as a kid. I remember using the acid/base to clean it and it and that was nasty stuff.

                        Check pricing on Starboard. Last time I bouth, they seemed to have good prices.

                        Hello Starboard!

                        David M
                        Current Mqko - 1990 Mako 211 w/2006 250 E-TEC. [br]- Previous Makos 1987 20C, 1979 23\' IB, 1970s 17 Angler


                        • #13
                          I got my starboard here:


                          $260 for 3/4 and $180 for 1/2 full sheets. Not sure the price of freight shipping, but still would beat 450 I think.
                          Danny Facciola[br]1987 231 Suzuki 225[br]Edgewater, MD


                          • #14
                   has the best pricing I can find, and they are very, very nice people.

                            If you are looking for black, and plan to use it on non load-bearing applications (ie hatches and such) look around for "starlite," which is significantly less expensive.
                            ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]


                            • #15
                              I bought a full sheet of 3/4" dolphin gray for my boat from Piedmont Plastics. Under $300 delivered to my door.
                              Steven[br]1978 Powercat 232[br]One flat broke, the other almost ready to float!!![br]Atlanta, GA