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Hey wilson Ayala

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  • Hey wilson Ayala

    I noticed on your pictures that you repaired the tops of your gunwales. Could you sort of walk me through what you did? I am planing on doing the same thing soon.

  • #2
    Also look here. http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw5.htm

    Wilson and I have about the same boat.

    I removed the rotten 1/2in plywood and replaced it with 1/2in Kledgecell.

    It's all vacuum bagged.

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    • #3
      I have the same model boat in a 79. I was just asking because I looked under my washboard and the lamination under it is only attached on the side nearest the hull the side facing the rodholder you can pull it down and see the core. Any suggestions on how to tackle this one?

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      • #4
        Sounds like a total delamination. Is it just in one area? Got pix's?

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        • #5
          I dont have pix right now but it looks like it was never attached to the rod holder side as it only has a slight raise and not enough material to bridge the gap. I can have some pictures in by tomorrow afternoon if that will help.

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          • #6
            Heres some pixs I'm posting for Ernie Williams.










            Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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            • #7
              Argggggg! That is not going to be an easy fix. Gravity is working aginst you. Never mind grinding overhead.[]

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              • #8
                I was just wondering if this came this way or if the previous owner did this? What do you think would be the best fix to solidify this area. I got little cracks in the gelcoat from the washboard flexing during docking.

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                • #9
                  Sorry I was out of town and had no internet access to speak of. What if you do like the rest of us and just go in from the top. From there you could rebond that with epoxy.
                  1975 23\' Tampa,FL

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                  • #10
                    I've been giving this alot of throught.

                    What Wilson sayed is going to be the easiest way to do it. Still alot of work. The washboards have no strength the way they are.

                    I had throught of going in from the bottom with the composit's that that company sells for stringer material. I lost the website when my HD crashed.

                    Looking toward the transom there is a vertiacl panel that is going to be in the way. Just disreguard this idea.

                    Go in with the diegrinder and deskin the wash boards and bow area. Use Duct tape to seal between the existing lower skin of glass and the vertical part that your knees would hit. Lay some glass in there to connect the two together and start with a new core. I used 1/2in Kledgecell in place of the 1/2marine plywood.

                    As much work as this is going to be, it's going to be alot easier to do it from the top.

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                    • #11
                      Thats what I was thinking just wanted to get more opinions. Thanks to the both of you for your time.

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