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  • Installing Rubrail

    I have ordered the new rubrail for Annie II. I ordered 2-28' lengths. Was thinking about the install process.

    Where do I start, bow or transom? How do I handle the wrap around at the bow.? Where is the best place to have the seam?

    I am using 980R Black Rubrail from Hamilton Marine with 3/4" S/S Insert.

    thanks for the Help.

    Bob
    Bob Carpenter [br] Maine[br]1969 Boston Whaler 13\' (Annie3 1/2) [br]Built Annie2 and Annie3 which can be seen in The Project pages[br]

  • #2
    Why a 2 part rub rail? I've seen kits for 50 or 60 feet that would cover the entire distance. I've never installed one but I'm planning on replacing my brown worn rub rail soon. with the temps getting higher bob I'd pick a nice warm day to limber up the rubber in the rail. That will make it much easier to move around. Also may need a buddy to help you out.

    Good Luck

    SB
    Tim[br]1981 19 (project)[br]prior 1978 17 angler (sold)[br]

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    • #3
      28' was the longest available in this style.

      Yes, I plan on doing it on a warm day.

      bc
      Bob Carpenter [br] Maine[br]1969 Boston Whaler 13\' (Annie3 1/2) [br]Built Annie2 and Annie3 which can be seen in The Project pages[br]

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      • #4
        I just re-installed my rubrail and I tied the back section to the transom eye to kind of hold it in place, then started at the front and worked my way back. this was a one piece rail. Stock Mako style.

        I sure do wish you were working with a one piece unit. If that joint opens up at all (shrinkage) it will look tacky. Dave.
        [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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        • #5
          Unless its a special rubrail get a full length one made by Taco from West Marine. They bend very easily around corners when you get yourself a blow/hair drier and blow some nice hot air on the plastic/rubber material. Whan I first experimented I was shoked at how the rubber/pastic reacted to the heat.....becamse almost like putty. 90 degree bends around the transom and bow were smooth as silk. Great tool, that blow drier, good for removing decals without burning your hands too!
          Jones Inlet, Long Island

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          • #6
            I just spoke to Hamilton Marine. They stated that it was standard practice to cut mitre joints at the bow point and it should be fine.

            Longest length available was 40'. Then I'd have 2 seams... Nah.
            Bob Carpenter [br] Maine[br]1969 Boston Whaler 13\' (Annie3 1/2) [br]Built Annie2 and Annie3 which can be seen in The Project pages[br]

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            • #7
              I did mine by predrilling then screwing in near the transom. Then we skipped entire side and tacked the bow area while pulling keeping a straight line between the two points. Now as you start to screw the rest in it will automatically stretch as you put it into position.

              You also want to install on a blazing hot day to get the most stretch out of

              Sean
              Bayport, NY[br]1979 Mako 25\'

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              • #8
                Bob-

                If you were using a one piece rubrail it does not matter where you start. However, since you are using a 2 piece rub rail.....start from the bow and wrap both side of piece 1 equally around the bow because you don't want to have a seam near there. Then cut piece 2 to finish of the rest.

                As far as as warming the plastic is concerned, my buddy fills up a big tank of water that has a hot water heater element in it and after about an hour, the rubrail becomes very flexible. However, you should be okay if you use put the rubrail near some sort of heat source and then use a hand-hel heat gun as you go along.

                One other suggestion, make sure each screw is rolled through some Lifeseal or 4200 before you screw it into the hull. If you caulk the hole first and then push the screw in it forces the caulk out the backside of the hull. By doing it the first way....you are guaranteed to make sure caulk is on the threads of each screw.

                PS - 4 hands make this job much easier.

                WHere are the photos of the painted hull???

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                • #9
                  Should have got the boat back today , but the Ceramcote bottom paint wasn't cured enough to put it back on the trailer.

                  Soon - I hope.
                  Bob Carpenter [br] Maine[br]1969 Boston Whaler 13\' (Annie3 1/2) [br]Built Annie2 and Annie3 which can be seen in The Project pages[br]

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                  • #10
                    Taco Marine's installation videos are online at DIY.net on the Shipshape site. They'll take you through every step of installation of all types of rubrails. How you do the seams depends on if it's a flexible or rigid rubrail.
                    Past:[br]1988 Mako 230[br]1987 Mako 20C (best of them all)[br][br]1974 Mako 15[br]Miami, FL[br]

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