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Salt build-up

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  • Salt build-up

    I was replaced the exhast cover gaskets on my 1987 Suzuki DT200 yesturday and noticed a lot of salt build-up on the inside of the cover. So I can imagine what the rest of the water jacket looks like. I run the boat in an estuary, so I assume the engine gets flushed when i come from the ocean and back in the river which is fresh water, but guess not. Is there a solution I can run the engine in that will disolve all the salt build-up??
    [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br][br]1976 Mako 25[br],25[br]

  • #2
    Hi mrdelgado,

    I'm assuming from your location your running between Newburyport and Plum Island. How far do you run back before you tie up or pull the boat. I've seen salt water get as far as Larry's marina or better. Do you think that might be a cause of it? I generally put in at Haverhill and run out from there. I know it's a long run but I don't mind to much. It gives the boat lots of time to run fresh water through her and my friend has a boat slip at Kasmera's (spelling)

    Tim[br]1981 19 (project)[br]prior 1978 17 angler (sold)[br]


    • #3
      There is a product called "Salt Away" that you hook into the garden hose as you flush it. I've never used it.

      There is another product by MST Guardian.

      They also have a specil hook up that's mounted to the motor that act's like a water pick for your cooling system. I've throught about it,but never got around to buying one.


      • #4
        Yeah, I'm running out of the American yacht club, last club on your right as you go towards the mouth.

        Salty you should just trailer over to the salisbury reservation, that's free and the public launch in newburyport is, I think $4?

        Anywho, any idea how to get rid of the salt buid-up?
        [br]Michael R. Delgado[br]1972 Mako 22[br][br]1976 Mako 25[br],25[br]


        • #5
          If I'm in a pinch to get the mouth I run out of the res. They charge 5 or 6 bucks to use the ramp. As for the Newburyport ramp... that's a Zoo!! I'd rather go for a run up the river than fight at the ramp.

          As for the salt, there's not much better that running fresh water through the engine after the days run. If you have the boat moared, I'd run the salt away as Wart suggested from time to time.

          I'd say the American Yacht club gets mostly salt water for the most part. Once you get ahead of the salt deposits etc, I'd make it a point to go for a run up the river before shutting down for the day (outgoing tide prefered). Yeah it's a pain but every once in a while wouldn't hurt.


          Tim[br]1981 19 (project)[br]prior 1978 17 angler (sold)[br]


          • #6
            Not being fortunate enough to have a fresh water stream to run in immediately after returning from the "big salty waters", I have used the "salt-away" product, which is available from West Marine, Overton's, and a number of other "major" stores, etc.

            It works EXACTLY as advertised[][], cleaning the surfaces of any salt residue or build up and leaving behind a slightly shiny film of protectorant.

            I use it to wash everything you CAN see[8)] (exterior AND interior of the boat), and everything you CAN'T see[B)] (the motor flush - There is a "flushing kit" that is available for a few bucks extra, that is the cat's whiskers... It goes in-line in the garden hose, and you simply use your normal "rabbit ears" or other appropriate flushing tool, to flush the motor. I also lift the hoods, and spray off the motor, as well as use it to spray inside the trailer brakes, inside the holes in the trailer frame, etc., etc., etc...)

            Also, whenever I go to the "big salty waters" (Only the Pacific, and the Gulf of California so far...), I remove the motor hoods, and liberally douse everything in sight with a light coating of WD-40, prior to going into the water. I also pay particular attention to coating any "exposed thread" fasteners (boat AND trailer...especially the wheel studs...), making sure they get a coating of protectorant.

            Last but not least, I make sure to coat all electrical connections with "dialectric grease" (available from almost any auto parts store) covering all exposed connector surfaces. Especially important are the trailer light bulb connections.

            Good Luck... OB1
            Working for a livin\' is HIGHLY Over-Rated...[][br]