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Which Bilge Pump and Switch Setup

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  • Which Bilge Pump and Switch Setup

    Bobby got me thinking about my two new Rule 1100 gph auto bilge pumps and spoooooked me. [:u][:u]What do you guys recommend for bilge pump and separate float set ups?

    I will be running two bilge pumps.

    thanks-

    bc
    Bob Carpenter [br] Maine[br]1969 Boston Whaler 13\' (Annie3 1/2) [br]Built Annie2 and Annie3 which can be seen in The Project pages[br]

  • #2
    What exactly did he tell you. My opinion is to install the largest pumps you can afford. []
    Past:[br]1988 Mako 230[br]1987 Mako 20C (best of them all)[br][br]1974 Mako 15[br]Miami, FL[br]

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    • #3
      I have had problems with Rule pumps. When I almost sunk my 17 I was running a Rule pump and it shit 100 yards from the ramp. I have been using Johnson pumps ever since. I have gone out of my way to fry them and they are tough pumps. I have fryed rule live well pumps just as easily.

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      • #4
        In my boat there is a Standard 1500gph and a 2000gph.

        The SureBail float switch's or the RULE-A-MATIC Plus Float Switch's are the only one's to use. They are proven and you can manually test them.

        That's Important! I use the same Rule float switch in Hammertime's boat for a high water alarm. You sure know when that alarm goes off.

        Here's the deal with those Super Auto pumps.[xx(]

        They run every so often. Something like every so many min.

        When they sence water or the extra torque it takes to start pumping they keep running until that goes away.

        There is no way to test them.[] They suck a battery down MUCH faster.

        I know your boat is going to stay in the water.

        I would have a high water alarm and a pump cycle counter.

        That counter will tell you how many times the pump has turned on.

        That's important for the well being of the boat. The counter is resetable. Just push a button and it goes back to "0".

        Now if you notice a higher number of cycles and it hasn't been raining. You know something is wrong and need's attention.

        Give me a little time and I'll find it for you. I think it's Rule that has a panel with all of that built into it. It's about $100.

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        • #5
          I agree with you on that Wart. Automatic pumps are a bad idea. I use the Rule float switch on my pump, but I still dont like Rule pumps. I know lots of people that like them but I have had marginal luck with them.

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          • #6
            Bobby,

            Hows 'bout sending me the link for the Pumps and the float switch that you are describing?

            A link is worth a thousand words.

            I have already installed one of the pumps, and removed it so I can't return it. ( Had to get about 6" of rain out of the boat last year when I was working on the transom project)..

            I could always use one automatic and one with a separate switch I suppose?

            Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and get two new ones.
            Bob Carpenter [br] Maine[br]1969 Boston Whaler 13\' (Annie3 1/2) [br]Built Annie2 and Annie3 which can be seen in The Project pages[br]

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            • #7
              I just pulled the factory installed 1500 gph Rule pump and replaced it with a 2000 gph Rule, then added a second one as a backup.



              During the upgrade, I replaced the SureBail float switch with a set of these solid state switches from Material Sciences Corporation.

              http://www.msc-emd.com/sensaswitch.shtml



              With a typical float switch, you always run the risk of something fowling the float, leaving your pumps non-operational. With solid state switches, that can't happen. In addition, the switches can be tested by placing your fingertips on the round 'targets' that you can see embossed on the switch body. That way the switch (and the pumps) can be tested without dumping water into the bilge.

              Just another option...

              Edit: Here is a link to the project page:

              http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...rchTerms=bilge
              Capt Kevin ~~~><((((*>[br][br] 2520 MVSC \"Chesapeake Edition\"[br]Annapolis, Maryland[br]http://ClassicParker.com/

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              • #8
                As previously mentioned, it's important to recognize the difference between "Fully automatic" and the "automatic float switch".

                Whether or not you like the external float switches is purely personal preference. I won't use one because I know I'll jam something into it and it won't work.

                I'm using an attwood 500 automatic (built-in float switch) wired to a (ON)-OFF-ON[AUTO] switch, and directly to the battery (not through the batt switch). I never have to worry about it.

                Before splashing the boat back in I plan on installing a ~1000gph pump wired to the manual side of the switch as well (Gary got me scared after his incident[B)]).
                \'72 Mako 17, Suzuki 140 FOR SALE[br]\'74 Mako 19B Project FOR SALE[br]Seabird 21 Project FOR SALE[br]San Juan 28 sailboat [br]Wake, VA[br][IMG]

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                • #9
                  I use both.

                  Have an 1100 gph rule fully auto set as low as possible. Being alot of rain water seems to make its way to the bilge on my 261, I will say having the fully auto pump keeps the bilge MUCH drier ALL THE TIME than any float switch rigged pump. I dont think it draws that much juice...if it doesnt sense an amperage load it turns off. When she spins up to check, it draws almost nothing. Then again, we have an onboard charger so who cares!

                  Other pump is a 2000 gph Rule with a rule float switch. I dont think its ever had to come on.

                  On another note...those corregated hoses in the picture really retard water flow...go for smooth hoses.
                  1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]

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                  • #10
                    makorider The hoses that Meg used are smooth bore inside.

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                    • #11
                      Stupid question, but I'd like to install a rule 1500 in my 23', and I'm curious whether you all attach the strainer to the glass, or to a piece of wood attached to the glass?
                      ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                      • #12
                        The hull is thick enough to put 2 short screws thru the strainer and into the bottom of the boat. A dab of 4200 or 5200 in the screw holes.

                        Be carefull about the length of the screws. 3/8in should do it. Also don't crank the screws down real hard. It can distort the strainer and you will have a hard time snapping the pump onto the strainer.

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                        • #13
                          3/8" for sure? 78 hull...

                          Last thing I want to do is go through the bottom! How thick is the hull actually?
                          ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                          • #14
                            My '73 231 is 1/2in. Hammertimes '88 254 is 11/16in.

                            The screw will only go in 1/4in, as part of it is eaten up by the thickness of the strainer.

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                            • #15
                              Wart,

                              Does this hold true for a 1973 C/C model 23 also?

                              Thanks
                              Hugs Tug [br]2007 SteigerCraft 23\' Miami W/ 225 Suzuki[br]Former 1973, 23 Mako C/C with I/O[br]Mattituck[br]Long Island N.Y.

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