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My new Mako 228!

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  • My new Mako 228!

    Hello all,

    I purchased a 1982 Mako 228 last week and want to join this community. I bought the boat with a 1991 Merc 200 that was low on compression in cylinder 6, so it is being rebuilt by Chris Carson. He told me the crank was damaged from bearing failure and is also resleeving. It will have a 2 year guarantee and it will be back on the boat tomorrow or Wednesday. The steering is manual but the cable is new and the Big T looks good. I am in Miami, so will keep my eyes peeled for a seastar at Dania at the end of the month.

    I have compounded and waxed the boat and it has a pretty nice shine. I added a 1500 Rule with a float switch in addition to the 500 that was there. I replaced the baitwell pump with a Rule also. Tomorrow I will replace the tank sending unit and maybe the gauge.

    I have some questions:

    1. Is the 200hp that I have ample power? what speed should I expect? The boat has a 17 pitch aluminum prop and a 19 pitch S.S. prop. The previous owner suggested that the 19 be re-pitched to 17. The engine should be more powerful now that it will be fresh, but will have to experiment.

    2. Is there an effective way to have one-way valves at the cockpit drains? Most of these boats that I have seen have inches of water in the well as the drains are below the waterline.

    3. The windshield frame is the standard brown finish that is peeling due to electrolysis near s.s. fasteners. Is this powder coated? The frame is only secured with screws and has some looseness. Will awlgrip have good bond to the powdercoat once I feather it, or do I need to remove it all? What is the way to do this-sanding or blasting? I want to throughbolt it anyway, so I might as well refinish it. I also think the color gets too hot and would like to lighten the shade. Is there a source for the rubber (weatherstrip) molding that offers a tan color? Does ayone have advise on the removal/reassembly operation?

    Thanks for your help.

    Richard

    Miami, Florida

    1982 Mako 228
    Richard[br]Miami[br]Pearson Flyer 30

  • #2
    sounds good welcome aboard rich
    Slim[br]Lafayette [br]1973 19-6 Aquasport[br]An a few Makos[br]

    Comment


    • #3
      Rich,

      A 200hp will push the boat, but won't be optimal -- especially if you've got 2-3 adults on board, a full tank of gas, ... you get the picture. A 225hp is a better engine for that sized boat. However, once you put the rebuilt engine on, see how it works out -- it may be all you need.

      The windshield frame is probably just painted. Powder coating is great, but expensive. I restored mine using simple Krylon paint from Home Depot. First thing to do is remove the windshield. Then sand the frame back down to the metal and wipe with acetone.

      Mask off the glass and then spray a base/primer coat (two is better) of zinc chromate primer. You can buy it at Boater's World. It's green in color. Do not skip that step!

      Once the primer is dry, you can paint with almost any color you desire.

      Good luck,

      Prop Blast
      Prop Blast[br]Mako 224, F225[br]Tampa, FL

      Comment


      • #4
        I went the sandblasting/powder coating direction when I redid mine this winter. 200 bucks. I figured that if I added in time and materials of me doing it by hand, it wasn't a bad price. Plus I wasn't sure if I would be happy with the results doing it on my own. (I'm a carpenter not a painter.)It's now a light gray to match the cushions and starboard.
        Danny Facciola[br]1987 231 Suzuki 225[br]Edgewater, MD

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        • #5
          Rich, a 200 Merc is usually only 2.5 or 2.7 Litre....if I remember right. Not much butt (Cubic Inch) See if your wrech has a 3.0 litre 225 hanging around and maybe he will give ya some trade on the 200.

          Comment


          • #6
            in my opinion, a 200hp motor on a 22 foot boat should be just fine. As far as selecting the right prop, all boat, motor, & prop combo's run a little different so you will have to do some on the water testing. What you are looking for is to get to peak RPM with a moderate load (1 passanger & half tank of gas) at full throttle. The new 4 stroks are 6000rpm and 2 stroks are anywhere from 5200-5600 RPM depending on make model etc. I'm not sure what your's is suppose to turn but someone here will probably know it. As and example my 23'r with an older 200HP Rude turns 5400 RPM at full throttle. It tops out at 32mph wide open and cruises at 28mph at 4500rpm. If anything I'm the one that needs a little more power.

            I noticed you said some of the screws on the windows are lose. When you take the window off to have it serviced, one thing you may want to do while your waiting to get it finished is to service the mounting area where the window screws down to. Take a drill larger than the existing holes and drill it out oversized a bit. Than refill them with a thickened epoxy / cabosil mixture. Once it dries, re-drill matching size pilot holes for the window screws to shoot into. It'll give you a nice solid mounting surface that will not rott and the screws will stay secure a lot better.
            Steven[br]1978 Powercat 232[br]One flat broke, the other almost ready to float!!![br]Atlanta, GA

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            • #7
              Run that 200 til it won't run no more. thats my opinion. i have twin 89 130 yammers- and would love twin 140 zukeys, but my motors have low hours and run like champs.. look at it this way you won't no how slow your going unless another 228 comes by you with a 225 HE! HE!
              1991 18 ft parker[br]previous mako 1989 240[br]1989 231[br]1974 20.... whats left of it

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the responses.

                As for the motor (2.4 liter Merc), I felt a little cold about it after reading the first reply so I called my mechanic and asked him if he had a 225 for me- he didn't. He went into a rather long spiel about the power hungry mentality that many have and well to sum it up he says unless I need a tower, etc I am just as well off if not better off not having the extra 200 lbs of a 225 and the added fuel consumption. He asked me how I'd feel if a Contender flew past me and laughed at my speed...I said my grin would still be ear-to-ear. So, I will have the rebuilt engine back on the boat tomorrow afternoon and begin to break it in. Will try the 19 and if the rpm's aren't there, go with the 17. Is it possible to repitch my 19 S.S. to 18? I will run the motor till it won't run no more!

                As for the windshield, I got a quote of $200-250 to powder coat it. (sand blasted, zinced then any color powder) I could do it myself with awlgrip but those materials would probable cost half that anyhow plus, +, +. As I said, the frame is merely screwed on. At a minimum, I will through bolt it at the corners. Of course, I'll have to pull the headliner down, etc.

                Do you guys use ordinary automotive battery chargers? like 50/10/2 amp type? Or do you have marine type mounted into the boat?

                Any secrets on making the Mako plastic accessory switch plate (simulated grain)look unweathered? Also, what is a good way to bring up the appearance of the mustard deck. Muriatic acid?
                Richard[br]Miami[br]Pearson Flyer 30

                Comment


                • #9
                  That Stainless prop can be pitched down. They would rather pitch down than up. Usually it can go 2deg down without a problem.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Richard,

                    Sounds like you've got a plan!

                    Go ahead and use the engine you've got, just expect to try a couple of props to get the right RPMs/performance. Most shops will loan you a couple of stainless props until you get the right one. If you're somewhere between a 17 and 19, just have the prop shop add some cup to the 17.

                    As far as the switch panel goes, I used ArmorAll on mine -- didn't last, but it looked a little better. If you want to replace your switch panel with new material (same brown grain laminate) let me know. We have a guy here in Tampa that makes switch panels. If my scanner was working, I'd post pictures of the panels he did for my boat and a 254 recently.

                    Battery charger. If you're looking to permenantly mount one, I'd get one built for the marine environment. They usually use stainless hardware. Get one that switches off once the batteries are charged.

                    Prop Blast
                    Prop Blast[br]Mako 224, F225[br]Tampa, FL

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:


                      Originally posted by Rich Mako 228


                      Thanks for the responses.


                      Do you guys use ordinary automotive battery chargers? like 50/10/2 amp type? Or do you have marine type mounted into the boat?


                      [:u][:u][:u]

                      50 AMPS???? your going to fry your batteries. Standard marine grade automatice 3 stage charges are from 5 - 30 amps depending on the number batteries you want to charge. I don't recommend the 30amp chargers, I've heard too many cases of fried batteries with these charging too fast. I like the 20amp (total), 2 bank(batteries), 3 stage chargers. It doesn't over juice the batteries during it's bulk charge and independantly monitors each battery's condition to maintain full charge.

                      (stage 1) is the bulk charge to get the battery to 80% charged resonably quick.

                      (stage 2) than drops to 2amps to trickle charge the remaining 20% to full.

                      (stage 3) and finally drops to .5amps to monitor and maintain
                      Steven[br]1978 Powercat 232[br]One flat broke, the other almost ready to float!!![br]Atlanta, GA

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi all,

                        Well got my rebuilt motor back and had her out for about 7 hours today. I followed the instructructions and at the end of the day brought her up to about 4500 rpm and was doing 30 mph. The boat is just greate and I am satisfied with the performance. Bilges nice and dry, just not a single problem.

                        My wish list for when I get back include hyd. steering, new prop, fishing rods and reels, and other stuff. I'll probably spend the night on her tomorrow (cuddy cabin) and burn them dead dinosaurs till my vacation is over!

                        To think that I still haven't taken a single picture?.!
                        Richard[br]Miami[br]Pearson Flyer 30

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                        • #13
                          if it is not too late, contact Matrix coatings in West palm beach for powder coat. You will save a few bucks. 561 848 2188

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                          • #14
                            Rich - I would not use muratic acid on fiberglass. I know many people do it, but my last experience with my old 17 Whaler was that it was the reason why I ended up with spidercracks all over the interior. Stick with diluted bleach if you really need to clean.

                            Check out Ringleaders project on how he re-painted his windshield frame if you want to do it yourself.

                            Enjoy and welcome to classicmako!
                            1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                            1985 Mako 20c - sold
                            Fort Walton Beach, FL
                            http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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