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  • bolt through rod holders...

    anyone seen any bolt through rod holders. i want to put a couple up front for gaffs, cleared rods while fighting fish, shin busters , etc. i know they have the bow rail mounted kind but i do not have a bow rail. i was looking for something to bolt through on each side of the anchor storage area. looking to mount them vertically.

    i may mount a gunnel mount or two up front .....but for now i want to try this, due to the fact of water inherently seeping into the gunnel mounted holders. they wouldn't be used all that much either.

    thanks
    1984 MAKO 254[br]Hartsville, SC

  • #2
    BAD HABIT - Another thought - Could you try one of those store bought rod holders that have 3 (or 4) rod holders together and make up a SS L (or T) braket to hold them vertically. You could even put 2 of these back to back with a spacer inbetween - it would hold 6 to 8 rods vertically. Only thing you would need to anchor down to the front anchor storage deck would be the bracket. Could use 4 1/4 20 or 5/15 bolts to hold the bracket in place. Should be strong enough to hold the rods vertical.

    Mike
    1973 22 CC Milford, CT USA[br]

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    • #3
      that may be worth considering. i will check that out after work.
      1984 MAKO 254[br]Hartsville, SC

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      • #4
        You could also try this type of Rod Holder. I have not checked out the quality on this type. Its just something I ran across for a friend of mine. This is the web site... http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...goods&v=glance
        01\' Mako BayShark 2100[br]200 Optimax[br]Lakeland Fl.

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        • #5
          BAD HABIT - I have used that type of removeable rod holder and for one rod it may be fine but for more I would not even consider it.

          Another thought however, - Years ago when I needed to keep tuna or extra rods from the action area, I put together 2 seperate sets of rodholders, each with a bank of 4 PVC rod holder tubes that were held together with teak wood (you know like the one's you can buy at Boaters world or West for appx $35). For each rodholder I made 2 small SS brackets to attach the teak wood part to the top edge of the gunnel in the front of the boat - where the spray hood would be screwer on. If I can remember there were already 2 sets of 2 screw holes in the tot of that thin raised rim that runs around the inside front part of the bow area. Both of the rod holders kinda hung from these SS straps - one on the port and one on the Starboard side. Both were about 4 inches off the floor so you would not run into them with your feet. They worked out well and were very sturdy - could put 4 offshore rods in each and not worry about getting anything fowled with them because they were way up in the bow. When I made the 2 top and 2 bottom teak pieces, I made the back of each curved to fit the natural inside curve of the vertical inside wall of the bow area that they hung aganist. I also glued some material onto the teak on the side that contacted the gelcoat so it would not scratch the gelcoat. If I were making them over now I would use Starboard and probably use at least 4 holders of the type that can be seperately purchased at a marine store. All in all they worked out very well and what I liked about it the most was I did not put any new screw holes or other holes in the boat. Hope this gets you thinking -

          Mike

          Mike
          1973 22 CC Milford, CT USA[br]

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          • #6
            Habit...

            On my last floating hole in the water (obviously NOT a Mako [:x)]), I simply cutt off a couple 12-14" long pieces of 1 1/4" (or was it 1 1/2"?) dia schedule 40 PVC pipe. Drilled an upper and lower hole in it, with the "upper outer" hole large enough to allow the head of the screw to pass through so's the rod handle could drop down to the lower screw.

            I slipped washers over the upper screw at the inboard side, and for the lower one, used a shortened section of 1/2" PVC, to fit inside the tubing, and act as a compression spacer to keep the PVC from collapsing, and to be the "handle stop". Then I simply screwed the whole thing to the side of the console, using sealer on the screws.

            For appearance and safety, I sanded the cut ends and the inked-on lettering. They ended up being uniform enough in color to not be obvioulsy obstusive, and were plenty sturdy enough to hold gear out of the way[8D].

            Good Luck...
            Working for a livin\' is HIGHLY Over-Rated...[][br]

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            • #7
              i believe i will " rig " something up with some starboard i have and some pvc pipe. i may even make the holders with some aluminum tubing. depends on if i have any money left after all of the boat fixing is said and done
              1984 MAKO 254[br]Hartsville, SC

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              • #8
                any thoughts on pvc vs. aluminum?
                1984 MAKO 254[br]Hartsville, SC

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                • #9
                  quote:


                  Originally posted by BAD HABIT


                  any thoughts on pvc vs. aluminum?



                  PVC will last longer and won't become pitted and badly corroded. Just take some mineral spirits and clean the ink off the PVC pipe and they will look pretty good. Don't forget to sand the ends to nice round edge.
                  1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                  1985 Mako 20c - sold
                  Fort Walton Beach, FL
                  http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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                  • #10
                    Use the PVC - its non maring and will not corode. Also the PVC can be worked with regular woodworking type tools. You may have problems working with the AL unless you have access to metalworking tools.

                    Mike
                    1973 22 CC Milford, CT USA[br]

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                    • #11
                      sanding? dang!

                      i am about sanded out on this boat! i may be able to muster up a little more energy.

                      thanks for the replies.
                      1984 MAKO 254[br]Hartsville, SC

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