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Bilge pump upgrade project

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  • Bilge pump upgrade project

    Drat! - this item should have gone in the 'Projects" area.

    Sorry guys... []


    This was my upgrade project for this weekend... Replacement of the factory installed 1500 gph Rule bilge pump and Sure Bail float switch with a 2000 gph Rule "5 year" pump and 20a solid state switch from Material Sciences Corporation.

    As part of this whole process, I'll also be installing an additional 2000 gph Rule as my backup to the primary pump.

    Please excuse the "blue hue" in some of my photos, as the first two days of this project were done under the winter cover. []

    In addition to replacing the factory installed pump, switch, hose, and wiring, I decided to remove the factory installed plastic thru-hull and replace it with a chrome over bronze part.

    This is what the factory installed part looked like from the outside prior to removal...

    ... and from the inside.

    Just as what happened to the thru-hull for the forward pump, the rear plastic part snapped off during the removal process.

    No matter... after experiencing that from the forward fitting, I was sort of expecting it. []

    Measure, mark, drill pilot hole, then bore the 1 3/8" hole for the second fitting to be used for the backup pump.

    After installation and bedding with 5200, here is the result as seen from the outside...

    ... and from the inside.

    Allow the 5200 to set-up for 24 hours before going any further. (beer time)

    Next day... Time to remove the factory installed equipment.

    This was before...

    ... and after (before cleaning).

    The primary pump (yellow cable ties) was located in the same spot as the factory pump, and the switch located right next to it.

    The backup pump (red cable ties) was positioned next to the primary, and at the lowest point possible in the hull. The switch for the backup is mounted about 1" above the switch for the primary.

    The discharge tubing for both pumps was secured using the same route as the factory tubing, times 2.

    Since the throat on the Rule pumps would not permit the use of dual screw clamps, I bought the best 316 stainless clamps I could find ($5 each!) to make my connections on both ends.

    When time permits, I'll be doing a similar upgrade of my forward bilge pump. That project will entail replacing the factory 360 gph Rule with an 800 gph Rule, 12a solid state switch, new hose, and 316 stainless clamps, all attached to another chrome over bronze thru-hull that was installed last weekend.

    Still more to do... []

    When time permits, I'll be installing a high water alarm, also sourced from Material Sciences Corp. The high water alarm will be independent from the pump switches, and is also solid state.
    Capt Kevin ~~~><((((*>[br][br] 2520 MVSC \"Chesapeake Edition\"[br]Annapolis, Maryland[br]

  • #2
    Glad to see the loop's in the line too. Look's Good Kev.[]


    • #3
      Wart and Kev,

      I assume the 'loops' in the line are there to avoid the flow of water into the bildge from the ocean.


      If this assumption is correct wouldn't that problem also be alleviated if the thru-hulls were located near the rub rail instead of the boot stripe?Yes and No. If the thruhull fail's[fall's apart] or the hose comes off/breaks. You still have a"blue">
      Columbus, Georgia[br]1973 Mako 17 angler \"Reel\'s Angler\"


      • #4

        The factory selected the hole for the first thru hull. I just placed another in line with it.

        If you look at the photo below (after I removed the boot stripe on Sunday), and looking at the 'normal' water level on the bottom paint, you can see that the discharges aren't all that close to the water after all. Could they have been raised higher? Sure... but unlike some folks here, I'm not a glass guy, so I just lined up with the factory hole and trusted their judgement. []

        Capt Kevin ~~~><((((*>[br][br] 2520 MVSC \"Chesapeake Edition\"[br]Annapolis, Maryland[br]


        • #5
          Nice and clean looking bilge! Is that a plastic Racor bowl inside your bilge?
          Past:[br]1988 Mako 230[br]1987 Mako 20C (best of them all)[br][br]1974 Mako 15[br]Miami, FL[br]


          • #6
            Thank you both for your explanations. Kev, I was not trying to imply a design flaw in the Parkers at all. Just looking for explanation. They are higher than thought they were though.

            Columbus, Georgia[br]1973 Mako 17 angler \"Reel\'s Angler\"


            • #7
              i'm gonna sound like a jerk-but i'm not a jerk!!! i see a huge potential problem-hose on that thru hull is not certified!! bad move!! second the thru hull isnt bonded to ships ground! and i hope you didn't wire the bilge pump with those connectors with out heat shrinking them??? also is that a bracket on the boat if so what kind of bottom paint is on that?? thru hull hoses should be only certified engine intake hosing - they are designed to with stand pressure and suction-that's why it's called certified hose.there is a potential for that hose to blow out under pressure of intake water!!


              • #8
                just re read what i posted- please don't think i am picking some one's ship apart- i just pointed out a potential problem-i just don't want to see any one to get in a bad situation-again i mean no offense or disrespect!!!!!!


                • #9
                  Great post and good job, but that is one funny looking Mako. [8D]
                  1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                  1985 Mako 20c - sold
                  Fort Walton Beach, FL


                  • #10

                    there is a potential for that hose to blow out under pressure of intake water!!

                    What the heck are you talking about? There is no intake preasure.[xx(]


                    • #11
                      no intake pressure-think about it-that's a high speed pick up it is scooped facing forward water is forced up the scoop-that's why the water flow from your wash down even if the pump is off while you're running-that style hose that's on there isn't for that application-check codes-ther's your intake pressure!!!!!!!!


                      • #12
                        what about that big a$$ shut-off valve?
                        1983 21b[br]Waveland,MS


                        • #13
                          it's a common mistake-using that style hose for wash down pump or live wells-it isn't designed for that purpose-only hosing that should be used on thru hull is certified engine intake hosing-this is designed to with stand pressure and suction-it is what it is-certified hosing..... it's also common to see thru hulls that are not bonded to ships ground.all thru hulls need to be bonded with the exception of the marelon thru hulls-they're great can't be effected by galvanic corrosion!!


                          • #14

                            no intake pressure-think about it-that's a high speed pick up it is scooped facing forward

                            What you said here is not even in the picture. There are 2 bildge pump hoses. That's all. No water intake pickup. Just discharge.


                            • #15
                              discharge for what??? it's still a thru hull hose!! and that thru hull isn't bonded.i thought it was a wash down pick up that's what it appears to be. as far as a shut off valve-yup that's a big axx shut off valve-how many people here shut off the thru hull to there sea water wash down system????