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Water in fuel

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  • Water in fuel

    I just found out that my motor has scuffing in all 6 cyllenders, apparently from water in the fuel system. Is their any sort of testing kit to sample the fuel in the boats tank? I was thinking something similr to the way we test pool water for pH, etc.

    Thanks for all the info,

    \'76 Dyer 29- PALMETTO[br]\'?? 17 Angler [br]Darien, CT

  • #2
    That would be difficult because the gas and water seperate, water on bottom. Best to get a Racor water filter and use it religiously. That won't help the scuffing you have now, but may prevent furthur damage.
    Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]


    • #3
      I have a Racore and do drain it and chage it freequently... I also change the in house one as well. Just thought it would be cool if their was some way to test fuel before putting it in the tank.
      \'76 Dyer 29- PALMETTO[br]\'?? 17 Angler [br]Darien, CT


      • #4
        Scuffing can be caused by water in the oil tank also. water goes to the bottom and you get several miles of no or low oil injection. I dont understand how water in the gas could cause scuffing. Check your oil injection system out real well or run premix untill your sure. dave.
        [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.


        • #5
          dumb question: what kind of engine merc-omc-yamaha. you may have a problem with fuel dillution of your oil.water in the fuel will cause scuffing.however if your boat sits latent{UN USED} for a day the water will seperate from the fuel completely-than it can be removed by pulling the vent hose and pressurizing that hose to 3psi put the feed hose to the engine in a bucket and expell the water till you have fuel only.check the fuel sample to see if it seperates. another thing you can do is to put a primer ball ahead of the racor filter and again let the boat sit for a day and pump that ball with the out end in a bucket take a fuel sample if you have water that will tell it.if no water is noted than i would look else where.another dumb question engine was reaching full rpm? are you sure that engine wasn't starving for fuel{RUNNING LEAN}this will also cause scuffing. as you can see there is more to this !!


          • #6
            Here is something I found out a couple of weeks ago. I had to

            replace the remote oil tank bracket and hold down (metal now plastic)

            for my Yamaha 200 due to corrosion. As I was emptying the oil tank

            to make the fitting process easier I noticed glops of jelled two

            stroke oil coming out with the oil. The jello was the same color

            of the oil I use which is Yamalube bulk. After the tank was empty

            it still had a layer on the bottom almost up to the pick up tube

            opening which could have been disaster for the motor. I cleaned the

            tank out by sloshing with gas. I am sure this tank has been in there

            since new in 92. Just some food for thought guys.
            92 Mako 201[br]92 Yamaha 200[br]Seguin, TX


            • #7

              Dave and Jawz are right. It may not be from the fuel.

              We had an '87 Rude 110 that lost compression due to water in the oil. The OMC oil tanks of that era had some kind of threaded recess in the top of the tank...winter cover must have leaked and freezing water cracked the tank. Actually, pretty surprised how long that engine ran on its oil & water diet before losing power.

              As well, a lean condition is deadly. Though if its in all six, I'd bet thats not the case.
              1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]


              • #8

                none of thouse are stupid questions. it is a 1999, rude 225 Fict. It has been doing everything right, and was running when we put it away, still hitting all numbrs, reacheing top speed, top RPM- no loss of power. Check engine light came on freequently with code 37- this is when i was instructed to just change and drain out racore. Otherwise doing what it should be doing.

                I asked the Mechanic to give it a good checkover b/c i am taking to it to Block Island, and going make it a slow trip back into western long island sound and I was concerned about the check engine light. He took the heads off and then found the "scuffing".

                How do you check to see if the motor is running lean or strved? Will this show up in the diagnostic check?

                At this point I am going to have him put the heads back on, and run it as is... I do not have the $$$$$ to fix it right now. Any suggestions on that- Can I do it?
                \'76 Dyer 29- PALMETTO[br]\'?? 17 Angler [br]Darien, CT