Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

new rubrail

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • new rubrail

    after i paint the boat, i am going to install a new rubrail on Bad Habit. I have seen some of the rubrails online, but I don't want to order the wrong one. Anyone put one on there Makos? I have an 84 254....I am sure it is not rocket science, but I would rather get the right one the first time around.

    thanks
    1984 MAKO 254[br]Hartsville, SC

  • #2
    The rub rails made by TACO will work fine on the older Makos. I think I may go back with a TACO rub rail with a stainless insert. Strick did that on his boat and it really looks sweet.

    Hamilton Marine has good prices on Rub Rail.
    Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

    Comment


    • #3
      those taco rub rails are great! leave the box in the sun for an hour or two than start the job-you will need a helper to pull the rub rail.advice-don't use the screws that are in the installation package the heads of the screws are too big to fit in the gap where the insert goes.if it is cold out when you are installing this heat it with a heat gun.don't forget to seal the hull joint area with life caulk or silicone sealer-if not than you could have a substantial amount of water entering from behind the rub rail!!another tip is use 2 drills 1 to drill the holes and 1 to drive the screws in

      Comment


      • #4
        On most of the classic makos (I am still in prospective buyer mode), is the rub rail attached via bolts that also attach the deck to the hull, or is it held on w/ it's own screws/bolts?
        ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

        Comment


        • #5
          The deck and hull are attched by rivits. The bubrail is attached with screws that traverse the rivited joint.

          When I redo my rubrail I am going to paick a small section at a time and pull all of the rivits. Then clean out any silicone and inject 5200 in the gap. Then pull up tight again with either rivits or, if possible, SS screws with nylock nuts. I think there are a few areas where I can get access to the back side to do such a thing. Areas where I can't get access... get rivits.
          Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi, I've put one on a 1973 Mako 22. Glad to be of help. I've learned that it is best done on a hot day. The new rub rail is more flexible when warm. Easier to handle. While I did it myself, it is really a 2 man job. You will NOT be able to use the same screw holes, so fill in old holes. I just filled mine with fiberglass putty and sanded them when it cured. It takes two of you so you can keep the rail nice and straight. Last things is, do not over torque the screws. The rail is warm and will have indentations at over torqued spots, and will never recover, even if loosened. Is not a hard job at all. I restored that 22, fixed all the cracks ,sanded and refinished the teak, painted it. It looked great, but not new. Put that new rub rail on, and EVERYONE thought it was a brand new boat. I sold it 3 years later and the buyer just would not believe the boat was 30 years old. He thought it was new. Good luck, hope I helped you some.
            Capttwb

            Comment


            • #7
              I purchased a flexible, as opposed to a rigid, rubrail from Henderson Marine. It did NOT need to be left in the sun, did NOT require a heat gun, and did NOT require a second person. I used... aw heck... what did I use... I'd say roughly #12 1.5" stainless screws, sealed w/ 5200. For the insert I bought black 3-strand rope and hammered it into place, which was the ONLY difficult part of the job.

              I was VERRRY happy with the result, both functionally and visually. []
              \'72 Mako 17, Suzuki 140 FOR SALE[br]\'74 Mako 19B Project FOR SALE[br]Seabird 21 Project FOR SALE[br]San Juan 28 sailboat [br]Wake, VA[br][IMG]

              Comment


              • #8
                One point about removing the rivits that hold the top and bottom of the boat together - Only do a section at a time - then do the opposite section (on the other side of the boat) working your way around the hull. Only remove and replace one rivit at a time every 3 or 4 rivits. This will keep the hull and inside liner in proper alinement and will eliminate the need to "force things" when a larger gap than normal shows up because you removed to many rivits in one area.
                1973 22 CC Milford, CT USA[br]

                Comment


                • #9
                  I just yesterday installed a new insert in my old rubrail. I have a 1986 21b and the rub rail is 1 7/8" tall. I have been looking to buy a new rub rail, but I am a little short on cash these days. But I did swing for a new white insert.

                  Any way the Taco part number for a 1 7/8" rub rail kit is:

                  V11-2423BBK50 2 (BBK means black insert)

                  V11-2423BWK50 2 (white insert)
                  Tinys Mako 21[br]Slidell, La

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    thanks for all of your replys that will help a lot!!
                    1984 MAKO 254[br]Hartsville, SC

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Doh! I mean Hamilton Marine. My rubrail cost me less than $100 bucks I think... and they even sent me about 8 feet extra.

                      http://www.hamiltonmarine.com/Rubrail.html
                      \'72 Mako 17, Suzuki 140 FOR SALE[br]\'74 Mako 19B Project FOR SALE[br]Seabird 21 Project FOR SALE[br]San Juan 28 sailboat [br]Wake, VA[br][IMG]

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X