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Mako 224...22 or 24ft?

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  • Mako 224...22 or 24ft?

    I am looking at a Mako ad where the 224 (1980) is described as 24ft--is this accurate?

    Also, it's only powered with a single 200hp suzuki--this doesnt strike me as enough. Does anyone have this setup??

    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

  • #2
    LOA for the 224 is 22'7"
    Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance


    • #3
      I have a 224 that is powered by a 225hp motor. 200 would be adequate. 175 would do it in a pinch. With my rig I have hit 52mph wide open with a nearly empty fuel tank. I cruise nicely at 24knots at 4000rpms fully loaded.


      • #4
        what type of engine do you have, and what's your average range on one tank?

        So a 2000 suzuki 200hp wouldnt struggle too badly to maintain a 25-20knot cruising speed, you dont think?
        ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]


        • #5
          Johnson, Ocean Runner. I ran 96 miles in 4 to 6 foot ground swells one day and burned about 68 gallons. Not the best milage I guess but I don't have much confidence in the new fuel injected motors and a 4 stroke would sink a 224. The boat holds 122 gallons. At cruse I burn about 16 gallons per hour at 24 knots. By playing with the tabs I can get it down to 11 gallons per hour on plain at 19 knots.


          • #6
            general infold school carb'd engines will burn approx 10% of their horsepower in fuel per hour and at a cruise rpm that same engine will burn approx half that number example:200hp carb'd approx 20gph full throttle and roughly 10gph at cruise.check it out and you will see that the 10% rule will hold true.


            • #7

              Max hp for Mako's 224 is 240hp -- basically 250hp. While a 200hp will push the boat, the boat will run better and work the engine less hard with a 225hp. Don't forget that a T-top, full tank of gas, 2-3 passengers, tackle, coolers & ice, all add to the weight of the boat, as well as wind resistance.

              I repowered a year ago, switching from a carburated Evinrude 225 (1990) to a Yamaha F225. The added weight of the 4-stroke has not been an issue -- though I did move the 2 group 27 batteries from the transom area to the console.

              I cruise with a full load (3 adults, 80gal fuel) at 32 MPH (4,000 RPM), burning 9 GPH. That gives me a little better than 3 MPG. My boat has a T-top.

              Needless to say I feel the 225 is the way to go. If there's an Evinrude dealer in your area, try and find a 2004 225 Ficht -- the predessor to the new E-Tec; there should be some inventory Bombardier is trying to clear out. I've heard nothing but great things about those engines once Bombardier took over in 2003. If you don't want to buy new, look around for a Yamaha 225 EFI that's been well maintained. I think 2002 was the last year they made them.

              Good Luck,

              Prop Blast
              Prop Blast[br]Mako 224, F225[br]Tampa, FL


              • #8
                I prefer the carbed motors because all of my experiences with "state of the art" direct injection motors have been bad. I am happy to sacrifice fuel economy for reliability. I also like to do my own repairs and maintainance something that is alot more difficult with the computerized motors.


                • #9
                  My 224 has 1983 200hp Evinrude, I have no idea what my fuel consumption is. My guess is that I would be on the high side of the 20% rule.

                  It pushes the boat pretty well, but I won't put a 200 back on when I repower.

                  Also, I love this boat and if it's priced right you shouldn't let the size of the motor deter you. You won't be disappointed.
                  1982 224 w/200 \'Rude[br]Andover, CT


                  • #10
                    Thanks all for the info.

                    I too lean toward the yamaha EFI's, as it seems from all I read that the DFI's are still having troubles.

                    Sounds like a 225 is the better way to go; if the hull is in great shape, I may act, keeping the 200 for this season and upgrading next.
                    ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]


                    • #11
                      Well, let me jump in on the DFI discussion. I have twin 200 Yamaha HPDI's with 135 hours on them and they are absolutely flawless. My previous boat, a 26' Pursuit, also had a pair of 200 HPDI's that I put 500 hours on. Also, completely flawless.

                      If you decide to buy a carb or an EFI motor, make sure you shop hard and steal the engine from a shop looking to unload. You really need to buy it right, because your resale value will be squat. Just go through the boat trader and look at the boats with DFI's and 4S versus carb and EFI's, the difference in resale is astounding.
                      1987 Mako 254, 2013 Evinrude ETEC 175\'s (sold to my buddy)[br]1988 Mako 20, 2008 Yamaha 200HPDI (sold)[br]1984 Mako 17, 2005 Suzuki 115 (sold)[br]1981 Mako 21 (sold)[br]1978 Mako 17 (sold)[br]1986 Mako 260 (sold)[br]1997 Mako 232 (sold)[br]Tampa, Florida


                      • #12
                        If looking to repower with a good EFI 225hp to burn less fuel I may be able to help you out. I am getting a 23' with a 2001 225 OX 66 Yamaha with only 392 hours on it since I need to get a 4-stroke. Taking out customers works a lot better with a few less fumes even though these engines have very little for 2-strokes. I'm looking to get $6900 since the engine has such low hours. Going rate seems to be around $6200 for these engines but not with only 392 hours on it. I'll probably post this in the classifieds as well. I'm a little negotiable so make me an offer. [email protected] Thanks and enjoy that mako!!
              [br]Atlantic Beach, NC


                        • #13

                          My 224 is a 1983 model, which came originally with a Johnson "GT"-235 (essentially it has a larger output alternator). It had PLENTY of power to pull it to mid-to-hi 40's @ sea level, and on lakes up to approx. 2000 ft elevation. At 4000 ft elevation, it was a BUST, and WAY underpowered.

                          SO... I researched & researched, and ended up installing twin DF140's (both standard rotation, for which I have seen NO ill effects), which resulted in the boat capable of low-to-mid 50's @ 4000 ft elevation.

                          Fuel economy improved from approx. 1.3-1.5 (1.5 was absolute BEST it EVER got), to now being consistently in the 4.5 to a best of 5 MPG.

                          The major downside of installing two motors weighing 410# each, is that they caused the scuppers to be approx 1/4" below water line at rest. Am in process of adding a 30" setback bracket (Armstrong, which has a max bouancy of 492#), and enclosing the transom, which I am hopeful, will correct that minor annoyance.

                          If I had it to do over, I would install a single 250 4-stroke, to save approx $7-8K, AND get similar performance.

                          IF you are NOT going to go above 1500-2000 ft, from my experience, I believe the 200 HP would be at least sufficient.

                          Hope this helps, Good Luck...

                          PS: Mine is equipped with the optional 122 gal fuel tank...
                          Working for a livin\' is HIGHLY Over-Rated...[][br]


                          • #14
                            Thanks for the info--get that scupper situation fixed!!!
                            ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]