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Looking into a 1985 - 21B

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  • Looking into a 1985 - 21B

    What concerns, issues or other things should I give special attention to while looking at this boat. TIA, Dane
    Dane[br]Pensacola, FL

  • #2
    Nobody?
    ..........
    Dane[br]Pensacola, FL

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    • #3
      Great boat. I don't have the time right now, but will add more later tonight when I can break free.
      Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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      • #4
        Thanks Eddie,

        I've been a long-time lurker here, but rarely post . . . can't remember who around here has which model, etc.
        Dane[br]Pensacola, FL

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        • #5
          I have one and love it. It was a very clean one to start and I knew both it's owners from birth at the factory.

          It has some gel coat cracks but most of them do. I have a very minor transom issue from the swim platform/ladder that needs some drilling and repair but nothing else. The fuel tank is original and still OK. The lines were replaced and are still good. The rest of the boat is rebuilt. New wiring, switches, gauges, controls, outboard, t top, and electronics. I will be adding another bilge pump, raw water wash down, and a high water alarm this season when it warms up a bit.

          The boat handles great and I like it enough to be so upside down (value vs what I have into it) it's not funny. I really need to have it surveyed then work on the insurance value issue. Currently it's at 15 plus 1K personal property I think. I don't care just the same.

          To date it does everything I want and it's paid for.

          I'd do it again in a second for the right hull. A 25 or 6 would be the balls.
          2003 Boston Whaler 255 Conquest w/ twin 200 HPDI\'s. MA & ME

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          • #6
            My Mako 21B was a great boat... Maybe one day, it'll be a great boat again.

            You need to do the usual things. Get in the bilge and tap all stringers, you will only be able to access 3 of them from the pie plates (there is a short center stringer). The outboard stringers can be reached through the port and starboard storage hatches. Tapping with a plastic hammer... A sharp click that bounces the hammer back is good... a dull thud that absorbs the blow is bad. Looks that the limber holes on the inner stringers. Feel around the holes for softness.

            Look real good at the bilge pump/pumps... The condition of the hoses and the wiring will tell you alot about the general upkeep of the boat. Look at the hoses that go from the livewell to the thru-hull as well as the hoses from the deck drains to the thru-hulls. All easy to change, but will tell you alot about maintenance... In my opinion.

            Tap test the whole transom, inside and outside, especially around the motor, trim tabs, thru-hull fittings, and swim platform (if there is one). Removing a screw from the trim tabs will tell you alot if the owner will let you do it. Gotta be able to re seal it for him. Black moist crap on the screw threads is bad. Water that drains out of a hole is bad too.

            Trim the motor up and grab the lower unit and shake up and down really hard. Look for transom movement. Look for cracks in the corners of the transom cutout. Small hairline cracks are normal... Big cracks and chunks missing are not.

            Look to see if the motor mounting bolts are sunken into the transom a whole bunch (in the bilge).

            Bounce around the deck of the boat look for soft spots. The only portion of the deck that is wood cored is the area behind the leaning post back to the splash gate as well as the fuel tank hatch... Everything else is divinycell cored.

            Tap test the top of the gunwales (splash boards) check around rod holders and cleats really well. I have one side that is rotten on my boat and most of that is wood cored. I believe the front casting deck is wood and dininycell. Heck here is a core layout pix for you. Check al the wood cored areas really well and the divinycell cored areas arean't immune to delamination, so check that too.



            Check the underside of thos forward hatches really well. Those things seem to break down really easily. Mine were all cracks onthe underside and rotten on the inside. Don't know which happened first.

            Sniff in the console and bilge for gas smell.

            Look for loose screws around the console and leaning post/capt. chairs.

            Look at wiring in the console.

            Check the top of the fuel tank through the little hatch inthe console. You can at least see what the fuel fill and vent hoses look like.

            Look really hard at the hull bottom for cracks and other injuries and/or defects. You can even tap test the hull bottom along the stringers to check for stringer problems.

            You can look at the underside of the splash boards from the rod insets and you can see the underside of the forward casting deck from the anchor locker. Look at those and tap test again...

            I don't know squat about motors. Check the compression. All the cylinders need to be within 10% of each othr.

            Get a sea trial if possible.
            Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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            • #7
              Wow - that's the most comprehensive list I've ever seen! Two things I would add:

              1) smell the bilge and console for gas first. You don't want the bilge to air out before you get a chance to sniff it.

              2) I wouldn't bounce on the lower unit and do the transom dance when the owner is looking!

              Also, if anything is strange, including the owner I'd walk away. There are too many boats to buy someone's problem. I almost bought an 89 20 down in Miami several years ago that was in immaculate condition. The bilge looked brand new and the boat was real shiney and appeared to be garage kept. When I started questioning about the patches in the keel and hull the guy finanlly came clean and told me the boat had been stolen but the thiefs didn't secure the trailer real well and the trailer came unhooked going down the Interstate. You can picture the rest.

              Just check it out well. If I would have known that I would have been moving back to the panhandle I would have bought a post 85 21.
              1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
              1985 Mako 20c - sold
              Fort Walton Beach, FL
              http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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              • #8
                Ed, consider putting your well thought out answer in the FAQ section.

                I think it would be helpfull to many, for time to come.

                good job. dave
                [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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                • #9
                  Dan ger. I have a 88 21. As Ring says. Fine boats and they can fetch a nice resale. If the boat is solid, and motor checks out, anything under 10 K is a deal.

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                  • #10
                    Eddie,

                    Thank you so much for all of the information, like Michigan Dave says, that list belongs in the FAQ!! Hopefully we'll get to look at the boat tommorrow!

                    Dane
                    Dane[br]Pensacola, FL

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                    • #11
                      Dan ger if it don't work out and ya got your heart set on a 21, bring your $ to Jacksonville. Mine is not for sale but can be bought.

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                      • #12
                        Hate to ask this, but what are the stringers?
                        ROGUE I[br]1978 235 CC[br]Newburyport, MA[br]ROGUE II[br]1987 17\' Montauk[br]Camden, ME[br]

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                        • #13
                          Stringers are the vertically placed beams that run the length of the boat to support/stiffen the boat hull.


                          Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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