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  • Splashwell Hatch

    Anyone know how the large hatch cover in this splashwell was help in place?

    My boat came without the hatch and it doesn't really matter now due to the transom change, but I've always been curious.

    Also note in the pix the nice open rigging hole. Put on a lake, there would not be any problem. Put in the ocean and it very well could be a problem. That hole goes stright to the bildge and is not the thing to have open. Never mind the hastly run cable's.



  • #2
    Mine was simply screwed with washers straight through the glass around the rim and into the raised lip of glass just under it. I'm not sure if this was the original way or not, but mine was loose so I filled redrilled and rescrewed all of them. It is tighter now, but I would love to get rid of the whole contraption like you did.
    1975 23\' Tampa,FL

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    • #3
      Also, mine was not only semi permenantly attatched w/ 5200m but it also has a removable deck plate cut into it, for easier access.
      1975 23\' Tampa,FL

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      • #4
        If I were going to keep the splashwell like shown in the pix, I'd change it a little.

        First I'd cut the raised section where that hatch cover goes off. Then I would make up a panel as a filler. Then recut a hole to fit a Armstrong Rectangle hatch in it. Then I'd raise that foward vertical panel so that it was even with the gunnel height all around the splashwell area.

        Fill those 2 1/2in rigging holes and reroute the fuel line.

        Move the batteries to the console and get them out of the bildge.

        If you don't like the batteries in the console, then modify the console in the front to install the batteries there. It would be real easy to service them there too.

        In front of the foward vertical panel you could put another Armstrong Hatch in the floor there. There's ton's of room right there and would help to servise plumbing for bildge pumps and any other pumps in there.

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        • #5
          I want to, eventually do what you did with yours or very similar. The batteries are already under the console. What is this Armstrong deck plate business? I saw Eddie was putting one in too. Is this the magic solution to all bilge access problems?
          1975 23\' Tampa,FL

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          • #6
            Yep It's a tough cookie.

            http://www.armstrongnautical.com/DckPlates.htm

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            • #7
              22B, know it well. I attached fastners to mine. Slide bolt type......never had any problems with it.

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              • #8
                the batteries in my 20' are under that hatch and there is a small weatherstripping on the lip to try and prevent water from going in there. To hold it in place there is a bungie cord that is attached onto the cover and the wood where the batteries are. Its been like that for atleast the last three years that i've had the boat and i do plan on putting the batteries under the console.

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                • #9
                  also the rigging hole in mine was closed up and everything was run through either one of the side holes. I've had my boat in the ocean up north here and have never had a problem with it

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                  • #10
                    ah so. that's what the "loop" under mine is for - a bungee cord.

                    (that whole stern arrangement looks like an early "eurotrash transom" to me.)

                    i have a '79 mako 20 and the batteries and the valves for the indeck compartments are under that hatch. mine's not fastened with anything and it's made me a little nervous wondering what would happen if that came off when the stern took a wave....

                    mine has the two holes on both sides beside the hatch covered by a clamshell. looks like an oem setup but i don't know that for a fact.

                    does anyone know what that metal screw-on cap (starboard stern)that looks like an electrical fittng (but isn't) is supposed to be for?
                    \'79 20\'[br]savannah

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                    • #11
                      That is the same hatch on the 79 25 I grew up fishing on. It had a two bolts on either side of the fore and aft portion of the hatch which were bolted onto the deck. Then the hatch would come down over the bolt and then a nut would hold it down. We used the large screw on nuts from an adjustable window frame that were about 2 inches in diameter. They were easy to get off, but also easy to strip so you couldn't tighten it down real good and it always leaked no matter how we tried to seal it. I don't think this was how it came, but that's how we did it!
                      1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                      1985 Mako 20c - sold
                      Fort Walton Beach, FL
                      http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=42841

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                      • #12
                        warthog5,the picture of the above splashwell.what boat is it?it is exactly the same as my PC.Just looking for repair reference material.thanks dave
                        85 McKee Waccamaw[br]84 Johnson 90[br]West Creek NJ[br] [br]

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                        • #13
                          [does anyone know what that metal screw-on cap (starboard stern)that looks like an electrical fittng (but isn't) is supposed to be for?

                          quote]Originally posted by rhmc

                          This is a 12 power tap, there was a screw-on safty cover over it. you might find another one like it on the front of the console area.

                          [(best of my knowedge.) dave
                          [br]1994 Mako 215 Dual console Optimax 225[br]1978 Mako 19 with 90hp johnson[br]1996 Mako 22[br]1982 Mako 171 Angler 135 Black Max Mercury[br]1987 21b 225 Yamaha[br]1974 23 inboard Gusto gone.[br]1979m21 225johnson \"blue dolphin\" bought off this board and restored [br]with everyone\'s help!!Gone but not Forgotten....[br]1979 20 Mako 115 Suzuki gone[br]1977 19 Mako 115 Johnson gone[br]1976 23 Mako twin 140 Johnsons gone[br]1983 224 with closed transom and bracket[br]And 162 SOB (some other boats)[br]Venice Florida, Traverse city Mi.

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                          • #14
                            The EASY way to secure that hatch is to install two stainless eye-bolts, one on either side (port-starboard) of the hatch, and run a bungee between them and across the hatch.

                            Side to side is best because once the hatch is pressed down, because of the geometry of the splashwell it's pretty difficult for the hatch to slide off forwards or aftwards. And with the eye-bolts just an inch or so off each side, it won't move side-to-side. You can still pull it off going forwards and slide the hatch under the bungee (or remove the bungee), so you retain easy access, but that's not something I think a wave could do. If you want more reasurance, do four bolts and two bungees. Use polycord all-rubber(?) bungees (no exposed metal = no rust stains).

                            I'll post a pic of my setup after this weekend.

                            As for the other holes, mine is also currently exposed, but there was a hood (right term?) over the hole at one point.
                            NYC & L.I. - 1974 \"Classic\" Mako 20\' - Suzuki 2006 DF150 - Fly & Light Tackle, C&R[br]My boat: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23444#159594[br]Personal website: http://www.georgemcauliffe.com/

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                            • #15
                              davexx. I don't have a clue. Just a good pix of what I was trying to explain, over a year ago.[]

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