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Waterline Spray Rails

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  • Waterline Spray Rails

    Anyone familiar with these little puppies?

    http://www.thesmartrail.com/

    How nice would it be to run along at 40mph in 3-4' side seas and not get that aggrivating side spray in your face all the time. Think I might give'em a try. I know a guy with a Mako 250 with some built in rails like these, but no the same, and he says they work great.
    Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]

  • #2
    Artie, I hope you can remove them if you install them on your boat. Altering the hull of the boat will change the ride characteristics of the hull. I have friends that glass spray rails to shrimp boats. The purpose is to give the hull more lift, hence more speed.... but it also lifts the hull out of the water therefore changing the way it rides. Seems to me it defeats the reason for having a deep vee. Does trimming the tabs to list the boat help any? Just my 2 cents...Tony
    79 Mako 23[br]85 Wellcraft 18 fisherman[br]Hammond, La.

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    • #3
      Im very up on Smart rails and have installed many. They work great and have little effect on the performance of the hull. At speed your boat will have a bow high attitude so the rail will deflect spray far from the bow. To generate lift on a bow you would have to have a much wider rail than 2" and how ever long you decide to go. Good luck. Gary

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      • #4
        I installed 2 sets of them on a 26 Shamrock, 1 along the shine edge adn 1 up on the gunnel about 8" above the water line. Once they are on the boat..they are there for good. 2 sided epoxy tape and 2 part epoxy kind of has that result.

        Rails come in 9' long sections and are 2" wide. They will not eliminate the spray generated from slamming into a 3'-4' wave which is then blown back at you by the wind, but it will reduce the amount of water hitting you...if you installed them far enough down your chine, where the water interface with the hull chine typically is when running at speed, you will generate some additional lift, but will also feel some of the smaller chop as the rail provides a flat surface to contact the waves...just some of my experience. I ended cutting and grinding off the aft 3' of the rail that I installed on the chine of the Shamrock as I was feeling waves that I did not feel w/o them...

        Chris Miller
        Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

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        • #5
          Ship Shape TV did a show where they installed these. Seemed like they put them on the Bertram they rebuilt.

          I didn't see it in the list of vidoes. Maybe you could email them to find out.

          http://www.shipshapetv.org/videos.htm
          [br]***[br]\'82 Ski Nautique - Lake Martin, AL[br]\'80 236IB - Lake Martin, AL[br]\'03 Pursuit 2670 - Destin, FL

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          • #6
            I wonder how well they would stick to a painted hull??????? Would they possibly pull the paint up???? What if you decided you hated them????? Would you destroy your paint job trying to remove them????

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            • #7
              Mako,

              Thats a good question. Paint is only as good as the prep. I have worked on boats with fairly new paint and have pulled it with tape. If you know that your paint has a good sub strait you should not have a problem. As far a taking them off, I have never removed them because they work so well.

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              • #8
                Mako22,

                As per the directions from Smartrail, any paint must be removed prior to installation. They require a rail to fiberglass bonda dn the fiberglass must be sanded prior to installation for a good bond. If you applied over paint, the bond would fail or the paint would come off with the rail. Rail are shipped with a 2 sided 3M epoxy tape that has a protective film on it that must be peeled off prior to installation. Once it touches the hull, it's there for good. At this stage, you probably could cut the off by cutting the tape itself, which is about 1/16" thick. After the rail is installed, a 2 part epoxy is used to fill the small gap between the rail and the hul, both top and bottom. Once this step is completed, the rails are there for good. They would have to be cut off and then ground down, but the plastic is kind of soft and does not grind too well. I cut off about 2' from the aft end of a pair that I installed on along the chine of a 26 Shamrock.
                Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

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                • #9
                  quote:


                  Originally posted by Gary Shallbetter


                  They work great and have little effect on the performance of the hull.



                  Really? Rybovich installs rails on it's boats and I understood that they really helped with the performance numbers.
                  1978 Mako 25 - Blind Hog
                  1985 Mako 20c - sold
                  Fort Walton Beach, FL
                  https://forum.classicmako.com/forum/...og-bottom-time

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                  • #10
                    The smartrails sight has a Mako job pictured. I don't remember it being there before. Anyone know who this boat owns? []


                    Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]

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                    • #11
                      Im installing spray rails on my 19. Im makeing mine permanant like the Ocean Masters have.

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                      • #12
                        Atie, I'll be your lab rat I have looked at them for awhile and it looks like I ordered them today. Maybe I'll get you and Scott to help on install. P.S went for a ride on the Buddy Davis 28 today, All I can say is good god that boat is a stud!!! Its [email protected]#[email protected]%$ silly how well it rides. Still trying to wipe the grin off my face and dry the wet spot on front of my pants.
                        Ocean Springs, Ms[br]\'76 25\'[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45623[br]

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                        • #13
                          Just what I always wanted... a lab rat !! []

                          Got any numbers on the BD? Can't open her up yet 'cause of the break in period, right? But what did the fuel management system say as far as gph and mpg? I'm sure you looked..... [:x)]
                          Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]

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                          • #14
                            If the hull was designed correctly, you should not need spray rails.

                            My 1991 Mako 231 is completely dry. On the other hand, my old 1991 Mako 201 was soaking wet and could have used about a dozen spray rails!

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                            • #15
                              Ed. I think the steeper deadrise and the way the chine stops ~6 ft from the bow makes the 250 a bit wetter than most. I'm gonna run the spray rails from the bow to about 2 ft overlap where the chine has some shape. They'll be above the waterline while planed off (unless its choppy of course). Sound reasonable?

                              After the new motors, new paint job, new new new... last year, my wife told me the best thing I bought was the curtains !! [] She was a little upset that the new top didn't have them attached already. "this one can't be as good cause we'll get wet again."
                              Artie Sutherland[br]Rude Attitude -\'76 Mako 25 CC. - SOLD[br]1976 Mako 21[br]2002 Yellowfin 31 - 300 hp Suzukis[br]Gulf Coast, Mississippi[br]

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