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Not a Mako but trust your judgement here

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  • Not a Mako but trust your judgement here

    The Wife and I bought our son a 1974 SeaCraft 20 a while back as a birthday present. He had been looking for a skiff of sorts and I knew SC were great boats...we found a great one-two owner boat at a great price ($3K) get it home knowing we will have to re-power soon and might have to replace the transom when we do it...our goal was to get him running and allow him to fish the rest of the summer and fall before he goes into the USCG in Jan/Feb...the motor ran strong but we soon found the lower unit to be the wrong one and wouldn't allow the engine to go into reverse. A lower unit was nearly $1000 and that was putting it on a 30+ year old motor...the motor ran strong but /we couldn't justify putting that much $$$ into that old a motor. We talked it over and decided he had been good enough and as he had never nickel and dime'd his parents like his sisters did we decided to pop for a new motor...well when momma is ready to do something she's ready to do it...out comes the check book and we're off...the transom on the boat is 20 inches, not wanting to do a whole lot to the boat and wanting to get him in the water asap we found a 20" 2008 Suzuki 175 for a great price and bought it, loaded it into his Tacoma and home we went to have our local mechanic rig it...(I gave him the chance to sell us one but he couldnt beat the deal we got, not even close) but I'm paying him to rig it and buying all the rigging materials from him...soooooo now we have a buyer for his old motor, get a few friends over and we de-rig the boat, off the old motor goes to its new home and as we clean up the transom it becomes very evident we have a bad transom...absolutely no way I can put a newer, heavier, more powerful motor on that transom. Old motor was a 1976 Johnson 200( at the shaft) at 380 lbs, new mill comes in at 474 lbs and 175hp (at the prop).

    Transom has been removed and rebuilt with 1 1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26 and an appropriate lamination schedule as per the guys over at Classic Mako and Classic SeaCraft with 5 layers of 1708 and System Three Epoxy. The transom is now ROCK SOLID. Here in lies the rub...we haven't cut the transom yet...everyone is saying its a mistake to go back with a 20" transom with that heavy of a motor. Granted its nearly a hundred pounds heavier but has no two stroke oil tank in the rear...we moved both batteries forward in front of the center console under the console seat. We removed the fuel tank and are re-installing it to its most forward position (it was haphazardly installed at best) and may have a welder add a forward section to it to increase the capacity on the bow section of the tank. We plan on adding a heavy duty 5 gallon water jug to the front storage locker to move more weight to the front of the boat...

    We are basically locked into the 20" motor sitting in the crate at the Suzuki shop and are worried its too much motor for a 20" high transom...

    Here's the idea I've come up with...cut the transom to 25" and...

    A. Install a CMC 5"-7" Offset Jack Plate at the 20" transom height and adjust it to run as a normal 20" motor. This will limit the amount of tilt he has available but he should still have plenty to trailer with. His motor has a limit switch which when properly adjusted will prevent damage by "over tilting"

    B. Install the same CMC plate except a hydraulic unit to allow him to tilt the motor correctly as long as he raises it...

    C. Close in the transom completely and run a Gil or Stainless Bracket? Moves the motor too far back I think...would be nice to have a completely closed in transom up here on the Chesapeake Bay but I think moving that much weight that far back will be of no good benefit...

    Discuss...feel free to weigh in here...options?

    Ideas?
    My tackle box talks to me sometimes...this doesnt bother me as much as the fact that sometimes I answer back....

  • #2
    I know I am new here,

    but i used a 6" static plate to mount a 25" motor on a solid 20" transom. 6" back and 6" up. 1/2 aluminum...

    real nice product.

    Email me for details.

    Rich

    [email protected]

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    • #3
      We are locked into a 20" Motor...not the other way around...thanks...
      My tackle box talks to me sometimes...this doesnt bother me as much as the fact that sometimes I answer back....

      Comment


      • #4
        when you moved your batteries you went 80lbs forward (but added 10lbs more batt. cable. no oil resevor ... gold star there! but only take 20 lbs off at most. jack plate add 30lbs... (yep this is how my mind works almost every day) that is a great power plant! if time on hand is a big thing right now stick in two new bilge pumps and some of the ball valve scupper drains and figure out a cpl 1/4" starboard splash gaurds to keep water out till he gets outta here. 25" transomes work great in those little sea boats though !!

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        • #5
          Any device that moves the back further back will move the CG closer to the stern and cause it to ride lower in the water. Getting a motor raised 5" leaves options, but lowering it does not provide many options.

          D-
          Current Mqko - 1990 Mako 211 w/2006 250 E-TEC. http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6226. [br]- Previous Makos 1987 20C, 1979 23\' IB, 1970s 17 Angler

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          • #6
            Cut your transome to 20in install that motor and get on the water. The transome that was there before lasted this long and you built it stronger when you repaired it, cut the transome and go fishing, plus it's a new motor which most of us would love to have even if we had to sacrifice and go 20 inchs.

            JM2C

            Gabe
            Savannah, Georgia

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            • #7
              ^^^^^ agree 100%
              1973 20\' Mako http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21074[br]www.facebook.com/somersettackle[br]Old Lyme, CT

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              • #8
                I agree with the previous three posts. Maybe do some work on the spashwell design inside if the starboard fix like TT suggested won't work. You can move the fuel tank further forward if, in the future, you ever do the floor. Building a 25" transom might make sense if this were a motor you were going to replace in a couple years, but that motor should be the last one that boat ever sees.

                The only other strong option would be a full flotation bracket, but I imagine that still hurts the ride and its pricey. For the cost and labor, you might be able to find a dealer willing to swap the 20" for a 25" if it is still in the box.

                Look for opinions from Warthog or Raybo to go along with TTesterman's. They have a lot of experience with a variety of boat layouts and design issues.
                Sold the 17\', moved to FL... I need a new handle.[br]1991 Jupiter 31, current project[br]2005 Everglades 243, sold[br]2012 Contender 23 Open sold[br]1989 Intrepid 246 WA--gone to Australia[br]1973 Mako 17--sold with regrets[br]1992 Mako 17--started it all[br]Pompano, FL

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                • #9
                  I agree cut the transom, raising the transom and going 25" won't change CG of the boat and compensate for the extra weight of the motor. Moving things foward as you have will. If the old 20" transom worked well with the lighter motor then the new one should work equally well with the weight moved foward.

                  Todd
                  Mako 22b, Lost to hurricane irene and a 4\' oak tree [xx(][br]Annapolis, MD

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