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  • Beginning to boat shop and have Mako questions

    Hello all, I'm beginning to boat shop or actuall I'm beginning to do my homework for boat shopping, my research work so to speak. I've always wanted a Mako ever since I saw one as a boy in 1980. I'm hopefully going to be moving to the Houston area in the next year and a half or so and as such will have the chance to get out in the Gulf and do some fishing and will finally be looking to get my Mako what I want to know is ...are there any certain years I should avoid and on the other hand are there years that I should be looking for . The boat will be used due to financial considerations but I want to of course get the best boat I can for a good price. Any tips, advice etc. all will be appreciated. Thank yall in advance. []

  • #2
    How about some preferances? Center console, Cuddy, full or notched transom, Length.

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    • #3
      The next Mako I get will be a 1992 or 1993 Mako 261B... If that tells you anything....

      Honestly, the Makos from the 1980's are fine, and I'd venture to say that the Mako hulls from 1990-1993 are also excellent boats. After 1993 the picture starts to get a bit fuzzy. Mako was bought up by a group and some things were changed. Some of the larger hulls were changed to Eurotransom layouts and there are rumors of hit or miss quality. I haven't seen any of this first hand.

      The 1993-1998 Mako boats I have been in contact with were all pretty darned good and solid boats as well. Its really tough to say. But there arent any doubts about the Makos built before 1994.
      Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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      • #4
        Sorry I was so general in my boat description. I would be looking for something between 24 and 28 feet preferably a cuddy cabin with a full transom. I'd thought about the notched but am a little paranoid about taking a wave through the notch. I may be able to talk the wife and kids into a center console though if the size and price is right...[]

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        • #5
          So then your looking for a 248 walkaround or a 258 Cuddy. Does that help?

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          • #6
            I should have said from 24 at the low end up to 28 ft at the top end..man this computer communication is giving me fits. yes I've looked at 248s and 258 and also really like the 261 ....my wife of course likes the bigger boat ...[]

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            • #7
              quote:


              ..man this computer communication is giving me fits.



              Is there anything I can do to help you with the computer part?? (I'm not as versed in Mako as many of the others, but the computers I CAN do.)

              -Pat.[8D]
              18ft MonArk tri-hull: 140HP Mercruiser Alpha One - still in pieces...to be continued[br](I know it\'s not a Mako, but hey, its mine!)[br] Time\'s fun when you\'re having flies![br]president/hostmaster:[br]P.Ring Technologies[br]Cornerstone IT, LLC[br]LOUISIANA WEB HOST, LLC.[br]CompTIA Certified Professional A+/Network+ // Microsoft Registered Partner

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              • #8
                Miss-

                Gonna add my 2 cents to this discussion in regards to open transoms. I hear this alot, and really dont understand it, I guess its because I mostly hear it from people without much time in an open transom style boat.

                I have no fear of, and never have, taken any appreciaable water over the transom of either my '90 261 or '73 17. Occasionally a boat wake will splash over on the 17 when drifting...but nothing more than a slightly wet deck. I've trolled the 261 in some nasty stuff, and been on the hook chunking for tuna in equally snotty conditions and I've probably taken more water thru the scuppers than over the transom. When I was looking for the 26, we HAD to look for an older boat b/c IMO eurotrashoms are to be avoided like the plauge. They eat up space, are in the way of everything, add no safety advantage that I can see, and jack up the price of a boat...my 26 is the newer 28, they price it as a 28 and not the 26 that it is. Similarly, the older 241s are the newer 26s....and again, they tag you for the price of a larger boat. Nothing more than a marketing gimmick.

                And as a final thought....I'll leave you with this. I think an open transom is actually SAFER. Why? Should the proverbial crappola hit the fan and you take on water, you can easily clear the decks with the addition of power, cant do it with a closed transom. Case in point, I was coming through Manasquan Inlet NJ about eight years ago with a friend on his 21 Wahoo. Couple beers in us, moderate heave topped by a stiff wind coming off the ocean and a ripping outgoing tide was stacking the inlet up. My bud wasnt paying close enough attention and fell off the top of the wave and buried the bow. I mean buried....we were swamped. I managed to hang on, but enough water came through the boat that the captain of the Spring Lake lifeguards was ripped out of the boat and in a heartbeat was 15 yards away in the middle of the inlet. He dug hard and quickly swam back over the gunnel...engine was still running and we hammered it and because of the cutout transom the boat was quickly, immediately drained. Lost hatches and the cooler in front of the console broke its tethers and floated away, but other than that we came out of it unscathed. Would have been a completely uglier story with a closed transom boat.

                Anyhow...I've rambled...but you get my point. You have nothing to fear from an open transom boat, and maybe a bunch to gain.
                1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]

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                • #9
                  It depends on how you fish. If you run inlets real hard and stuff the bow then you need somewhere for the water to get out. I've never stuffed the bow. I have however taken way too much water in the boat from waves over the transom that weren't very big at all.. while at anchor. We anchor and tie up alot while offshore in Louisiana.

                  So our biggest sinker of boats is water over the transom. You take 1 good wave over the transom and your waterline is now about 1" above the water, all it takes is that next one and the boat is turtled. You can't get off that anchor or rig tie-up and start the motors (provided they will even start) quick enough. Not to mention at a rig you'll have to back off... impossible when sinking stern first. And at anchor in an area like the Sackett bank you're pinned in with 50+ boats on top of you in a 1 sq. mi. area of water. No place to hammer the throttle.

                  So there is a layout for everyone. I get a real warm and fuzzy feeling knowing that I'm not gonna take a rogue wave while I'm chunking for tuna.
                  Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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                  • #10
                    makorider

                    I'll take the other side on this.

                    From all the statments you have raised makes a good point to why I don't like center consoles for offshore fishing.

                    There are people who will popo this and say I want to fish all the way around the boat and I do.

                    Keeping the water out in the first place is number 1 in a boat. A walkaround is a little better as long as it ships the water over the side and not back into the cockpit. Most do not do this and I've been on WA's that we had 172qt cooler floating in the cockpit, but it still shead alot of the water compared to a center console.

                    Read my input on this thread;

                    http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=76

                    Now there are several reasons why I like pilothouses and I'm on the Gulf Coast not up north.

                    It sheads the water overboard. The Full transom doesn't let the water come if backing down. In the middle of the summer, those thunderstorms can make the temp drop to where you are freezing in the rain, if you get wet and the wind is blowing on you. Shade from the sun blistering your brain.

                    As being able to fish around the boat, what's wrong with turning the boat? Keeping the fish where you want him? Sure it's not always possible, when one comes to the boat and goes bilistic in some weird direction.

                    The type boat I belive sort of follows the owners age, to some degree.

                    All you young guy's that can take 2 solid days of beating in a tournment are good to go. I can't do it anymore. My body will not let me. If the water is blowing up snot. I reach over and throttle back.

                    This is supposed to be fun, not torcher. HeHe

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                    • #11
                      hey, to each his own, I understand that.

                      I was just adressing Miss's statement "thought about the notched but am a little paranoid about taking a wave through the notch.". To me (and no disrespect intended here Miss, I could be completely wrong) that statement reads "I really dont have any experience but it looks dangerous to me"...again, I've heard it before from others that back up my assumption, and its just been my experience that its not the case. Sure, you could, we all know anything could happen, (hell, I've floated coolers from waves breaking in the cockpit of a 36 Blackfin in a beam sea while trolling) but I've spent more than my fair share of time in my mako offshore trolling or on the hook throwing bait for tuna in less than stellar conditions and its never been close to an issue. In my head at least, you really have to get stern to the sea and either not be moving or be backing down before it is an issue.

                      Like I said, to each his own, I just dislike those eurobrackets to the point where I felt I needed to chime in!

                      And I can see where...in the future...when my head is grey or shiny that a walkaround may look attractive...till then I like having 26' of 'beam' to fish off of when on the drift.
                      1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]

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                      • #12
                        HeHe You will not get any disagreement out of me on the EUROtransom.[xx(]

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                        • #13
                          Thank all who replied I apprediate all the advice. I have only fished offshore out of boats with full transoms so I am biased to that design so Makorider you are right on that my paranoia is not from actual experience but from perception. I fish pretty much like Ringleader in that I like to fish the rigs and anchor and chum a lot and I know that if I took one through the notch when I was tied to a rig I would not be able to unhook and get underway fast enough to get the water back out the way it came in. warthog5 the pilothouse boats are also interesting to me, I guess because I've lived in Northern California for the past 10 years or so and those are very popular around here. I may take a look at some of the pilothouse boats around here and compare them to the WA Makos...we're going to the sportsman's expo this weekend and maybe the Alameda boat show so I'll be able to look around a bit...I do agree though...Eurotransoms ....suck....lol

                          [8D]

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                          • #14
                            I know we are all Mako fans here, but if you are looking for something with a pilot house concept, check out the Parker. When my Dad was considering calling it quits with the C/C (he's a little grey AND a little shiny) he was looking at the Parker and I did a lot of research. Just don't let anyone sell you on the "modified" Vee hull, stick with the deep vee. They are relatively inexpensive (I think somewhere around $42,000 for the 24 w' a single Yamaha) as far as new boats are concerned. Just something to think about if you are still undecided on going with a Mako C/C.
                            James Havanki[br]Great Mills[br]Southern Maryland[br]1973 22\' still \"in-work\".......lol

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                            • #15
                              Parker = Brick $hithouse

                              Not the flashiest, but deffinitely a solid workhorse of a hull.
                              Slidell, LA 1993 Mako 261B - Temperance

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