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2001 192CC Taking on water

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  • 2001 192CC Taking on water

    Does anyone else have a 2001 192 CC with the integrated transom bracket. And if so, does your boat take on water while underway. This time last year, my father bought a beautiful 2001 192CC with a 150 Yamaha. He had a T-top made of the boat and it is a sweet rig. But is has one disturbing quality..it ships water underway at slow speeds. During our first offshore excursion to the Sea Isle Ridge (18 miles off Avalon, NJ), it was difficult to ignore the fact that the automatic bilge pump would come on every 10 minutes or so when trolling into the building 2 to 3 foot chop. I watched the bilge for a while through the access hatch and water was literally pouring out of the port side drain hole in the coner near the transom. We had sanded and painted the bottom prior to launch, so I know there are no holes. The sea cock for the livewell pump was closed and was not passing any water. The only "hole" in the hull was the anchor rode locker drain, which was submerged with every wave, and not really knowing how that was installed, we assumed that it may be leaking into the hull. It was caulked the next day, but we still had the disturbing water intrusion problem. Dad suffered through the season obsessing over the water in the bilge. When we pulled the boat for the season, I was able to inspect the anchor drain, which was a hole through the hull directly overboard and held water in the locker all summer. I also filled the boat with water to the battery and it was not leaking out anywhere. The only area that we suspect now if the rub rail on the port side where the rub rail transitions from the gunnel down towards the water line...There is a gap between the hull and the rub rail and this area would catch water that is riding up the hull while running slow in some waves..

    Has anyone else experienced this with a Mako???

    2001 192 Mako

    "One More Yank"

    Sea Isle City, NJ
    Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

  • #2
    When you say "integrated transom bracket" do you mean it has the Euro Transom? If so I'd bet it is leaking aroun the rub. On my SeaCraft (another Tracker Marine product) there is a 1/4" gape (over a foot wide area on each rear corner) between the cap and the hull that was never sealed. Seeing how your boat and my 1999 SeaCraft came out of the same factory, I doubt they sealed around that boats cap/hull connection either.
    Owner of a once busted a$$ 1999 25\' SeaCraft! [br]One that I had to repair because Tracker Marine wouldn\'t stand behind there product![br]Houston Texas

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    • #3
      Captain C,

      Yes, the Euro transom is what I meant by the integrated bracket. And as you suggested, there is no sealant evident along the hull to cap joint. There was even a screw that was not fully installed that was pushing out the rub rail slightly. My father calked the edge of the rubrail where it meets the hull as this was a decent size gap that would catch water moving up the hull, which they all do before they plane off.

      We may have to try to experiment with the hose in the spring.
      Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

      Comment


      • #4
        If that is the problem, sealing rubrail to hull is not the answer. You will need to remove the screws pull back the rubrail and put some sealant in the hole, then in reinsert the screw.
        1975 23\' Tampa,FL

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        • #5
          Hmmmmm....

          Here is a couple of things to check...

          1) Check your drain plug. Do you have one of those rubber push in versions? If so, replace it with a bronze garbord screw in plug.

          2) Check your seacocks and thru hull fittings. Just because the boat is new doesn't mean they're installed right....if they're plastic they could be cracked. If I were you...I would at minimum...reseat all bronze thru bull fittings and replace any plastic versions with bronze versions. Besides replacing the plastic seacocks on the livewell intake and the livewell drain with bronze versions, I also added a one-way bronze check valve on the livewell overflow and I added a bronze seacock on the gas tank compartment overflow drain (see diagram of Mako 231 on this site..your boat might not have this).

          3) Check the anchor locker drain. It should be facing aft. Pull the boat out of the water and squirt water from a house at drain and visually inspect the bilge. IT is possible that the anchor locker is not fully glassed and water is leaking into the bilge from this area.

          4) Remove rubrail and apply 3M's 5200 sealant to the seam between the hull and liner. Then when reinstalling the rubrail...take a caulk gun filled with Boatlife's Life Seal and squirt a thick bead of caulk on a piece of cardboard and drag the threads for each screw thru the caulk before you reinstall them. This works better than squirting the caulk into the hole because the screw pushes it (the caulk) out when you screw it back in.

          5) Check all the inspection hatches on your boat to see if they are leaking water into the bilge. If so, reseat them with Lifeseal.

          6) Since this boat is new and the T-top was added after the factory...do yourself a favor and take out the screws holding the t-top to the floor and apply some epoxy thickened with cabosil to them. Let cure...then redrill pilot holes for the t-top screws. This is a common area for floor rot to begin and you want to make sure the wooden floor core is encapsulated with the epoxy (This is Warthog's trick...he told me about it 2-3 years ago when this site started).Better to take care of it now...it will only take an hour or two.

          I am sure others will point out a few other areas to check that i might have forgotten.

          Is this boat still under warranty? If so...you might want to make the dealer aware of the problem so that it is documented in the event that the problem is a serious one (an unseen crack or void in the hull). For the smaller problems mentioned above you're probably better off taking care of them yourself so that you know they've been fixed correctly.

          -Ed-

          Ed

          Comment


          • #6
            If your taking on water in the 2' to 3' chop, but not on flat seas, then I'd bet that there is a loose fit between the gunnel cap and the hull under the rub rail. I had a similar problem resulting from loose fit. I could not believe that much water could get in, but it sure did.

            Pull some of the rail loose and out of your way to look and to work. See if your cap fasteners are stripped or pulled thru. If there is any gap between the cap and the hull, close it up.
            Ole Joe
            Just floundering around
            White Hall & Ocean City, Maryland
            1978 Mako 25

            Comment


            • #7
              My vote is on the gap between the deck and the hull joint under the rub rail. A lot of water can flow through this hole in the boat.

              I had a leaky boat once and what you described is exactly what was going on. You can't caulk under the rub rail because the water pressure against the caulk will eventually remove it. You will end up re-caulking regularly. You have to take the rub rail off and fix the problem more permanently.

              http://www.docksidereports.com/hull_to_deck_joint.htm
              [br]***[br]\'82 Ski Nautique - Lake Martin, AL[br]\'80 236IB - Lake Martin, AL[br]\'03 Pursuit 2670 - Destin, FL

              Comment


              • #8
                Ed,

                Good Morning, you bring up some real good points...let me try to answer some of them..but to clarrify..the boat would not take on any water sitting in the slip. It was only while underway and typically in rough conditions.

                1). Drain Plug - The 192 has the brass screw in plug..did not leak any water when we filled the hull after we pulled the boat.

                2). Thurhulls. She only has 1 seacock and that is for the live well pump. It was closed all year and did not leak. The thru hulls for the drains are all bronze, but with plastic hose. They will get looked at this spring.

                3). Anchor locker drain..this is what we originally suspected. Dad had caulked the clam shell vent full of silicone and as a result the locker held water all summer. This did not effect the situation. I removed the clam shell after we pulled the boat to inspect the drain setup and it is simply a hole drilled thru the hull into the locker. No way for water to enter the hull from there....

                4). The joint between the hull and deck cap seems to be the best suspect as of now. There is an obvious gap on the port side about midway where the rubrail transitions from the gunnel down towards the water line. There is even a loose screw there. I suspect that we will have to remove a part of the rubrail and make a serious attempt to secure the joint between the hull and the cap.

                There is no evidence that the boat is taking water from the cockpit although the cockpit drains are obnoxiously slow, but I guess that is a the tradeoff for the eurotransom where you can't just plumb the drains directly overboard above the water line.

                All in all, it is a beautiful boat. And I can't get over how much bigger it seems than my 17CC. The additional beam and gunnel height makes it feel much bigger. My father is really happy with the boat with the exception of the water problem, which is very stressful for him, especially the day that we were 18 miles off looking for bluefin.

                Thanks for your suggestions..

                2001 192 CC

                "One More Yank"

                Sea Isle City, NJ
                Chris Miller[br]Mystic Islands, NJ[br]1974 17 Classic[br]1988 211 Classic (sold)[br]1990 Grady White 230 Gulfstream (sold)[br][img][br]

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