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  • 230 Windshield Re-Finishing?

    Hey all,

    I just bought a '90 Mako 230 and just removed the whole windsheild. I bought this boat with the money i got from selling my '77 Mako 20CC (which I owned for 7 Years). ANYWAY, I took the windshield off because it was barely hangin on to the boat in the first place, Most of the screw holes were sripped out and the thing was rattlin like hell while under way.

    MY QUESTIONS ARE

    1. does anyone have any suggestions for refinishing the windshield frame. The paint on the frame is quite peeling and it looks like crap. The frame is currently brown and there is also brown rubber trim which covers up the gaps for the attachment hardware on the bottom, and the gaps between the glass pieces and the frame. Should i prime and Paint it? Have it powdercoated? What about matching the rubber trim? Etc ETc.

    2. Also - any suggestions for re-attaching it to the boat. I was thinking about filling the stripped out holes with a marine filler and then reattaching the frame using longer and wider self-tappers with a generous coat of 5200 along the whole bottom of the frame.

    Any ideas / suggestions / help is/are appreciated. I would post a picture of the windshield in its current condition - but i do not know how.

    THANKS - chris
    1976 23\'cc w/2003 Mercury 225 Efi[br]Past Makos: 1990 23\'w/a - \'04 Suzuki 225 4Stroke / 1977 20\'cc -\'94 Yamaha 130 - Long Island, NY

  • #2
    There is a long thread on here somewhere about refinishing the windshield frame. Most guy's do away with the Browm and go White or Black.

    On the stripped out holes. NO Marine filler! Take it to a weld shop that does alum work and have them TIG weld the holes shut then drill and retap the holes.

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    • #3
      Good advice on the welding Bobby.

      Ed

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      • #4
        I think welded is the best choice, but not everyone has a TIG or access. Another option is titanium putty. I do not have the brand name in front of me but if you are interested I can get it for you. This stuff is indestructable. It is used professionally for filler on sheet metal that will be put to heavy service and CAN be powdercoated without any problems. Just another idea for people who would rather do it themselves.
        Former owner of a 1986 21B Mako[br]Venice, FL

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        • #5
          Call some welding shops in your area and ask. "Do you have a TIG machine and can you weld alum?" You don't want it MIG welded. A MIG is for bulk welding. TIG is for fine intercate stuff.

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          • #6
            PS - Im not really worried abou thge holes on the frame being stripped out as the hardware will just go though them. I am more worried about the stripped out holes on the boat itself for the hardware TO GO INTO.
            1976 23\'cc w/2003 Mercury 225 Efi[br]Past Makos: 1990 23\'w/a - \'04 Suzuki 225 4Stroke / 1977 20\'cc -\'94 Yamaha 130 - Long Island, NY

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            • #7
              i got the gist of what he was saying bobby. here's what i did.

              first and foremost. DO NOT USE 5200 TO SEAL IT TO THE BOAT! you will never get it off again without destroying something (from experience).

              i removed the entire windshield, then removed the glass. be sure to scrape off any of the sealer (usually silicone) and the foam rubber dams (used to kee the silicone from running into "other places"). i took it to my local powder coater. most will sandblast the frame before coating (save the sanding, scraping and paint removal for something else.) it took him exactly 15 minutes to completely remove the paint from the 5 panels i didn't try to clean myself. if you want to refinish it yourself instead of powder coating, i would suggest having it blasted instead of trying paint remover. any holes in the frame that need repairing are as bobby said, best welded. i had a friend weld the bracket that holds the to front frames together and also acts as the anchor light bracket.

              florida marine tank has the exact gaskets to replace the ones that are on it now and you can have them in any color you want as long as it's black.

              as far as the holes in the hull for remount. i drilled them out over sized then mixed a cabosil/resin putty to fill them. make sure you use a water barrier additive (from experience) or the cabin will get water in it. when remounting the windshield use a silicone sealer. i had a friend suggest something that totally blew me away but made perfect sense. instead of using silicone sealer use a silicone based tub caulk. when i spoke to a local boat builder he said the same thing. (i think that's where my buddy got the info.) most tub sealers are a lot more chemical resistant than plain silicone, will not mildew or lose adhesion as plain silicone has a tendency to do. the screws will hold the frame to the boat, the sealer is strictly to keep water from under the frame.

              i had my powder coated white and will post pics when the wife lets me off of house duty and i can finish up the boat.

              hope this helps.
              Grant[br]87 21b 97 Suzuki DT200[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23633[br]New Orleans, LA[br][email protected]

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              • #8
                see the above referred to thread, there is a little more information and i put the cost of what i had done there.

                also when going back in with the glass, use a windsheild urethane instead of silicone (as used by the factory). it will give you a rock solid mount of the glass in the frame and also stiffen up the windshield as a whole.
                Grant[br]87 21b 97 Suzuki DT200[br]http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=23633[br]New Orleans, LA[br][email protected]

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