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  • t top etc__aluminum/stainless

    wich do u prefer and why??????? tees/hardtops.......etc jim................ www.arctekmarine.com []
    www.arctekmarine.com 203 982 6322 bethany,ct custom t tops /leaning posts/ arches/hardtops/towers etc

  • #2
    Hardtop w/ fold down crows nest and controls.

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    • #3
      sorry warthog my mistake i meant what do you prefer in material and why??????? for the items etc i mentioned sorry old age is setting in .......lol lol lol .....jim..... www.arctekmarine.com [][][][]
      www.arctekmarine.com 203 982 6322 bethany,ct custom t tops /leaning posts/ arches/hardtops/towers etc

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      • #4
        In a perfect world, a hardtop. Just looks meaner. Alum tube over stainless. I think it looks better, its lighter, and generally is a larger dia, giving better handholds. More maintenence, yes, but....

        I dont mind Ts...but maintenence is much more difficult if you want to keep the alum perfect. I used to have a boat detailing outfit...hardtops are so much easier.
        1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]

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        • #5
          In my area Afordable Alum. Products & Blue Coral Towers do all their work in alum.

          The alum work on my boat will be flash sand blasted, Primed & Painted.

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          • #6
            I'm having a aluminum tower built in july. It will be powdercoated. My last one was aluminum and it was primed and painted. I'm told that they hold up better in salt water if they are coated. Plus they look good and are easier to clean. I'm sure priming and painting with a good epoxy based paint is better then powder coat. What do you fellas think? They are a real pain to paint for obvious reasons. Here are a few pics of a 5 year old painted tower on the boat I just sold. Hard top is going on my next boat. The canvas t-top can make some noise from the wind in my experience. The Blue canvas color held up extremly well.

            Strick






            Oakley, California

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            • #7
              I don't know that painting will hold up better than painting.

              Some of the problem with powder coating is finding a place close to you that has a oven big enough to put the unit in. If you had to have it trucked out to the next state it would not be worth powder coating as the shipping would eat big $.

              Painting tubes is alwaays a pain. You need to be able to rotate it like on a rotisery. I painted enough dragster & sand rail chassis.[]

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              • #8
                Hey arctecmarine... Here's a chance for you to get some business. I'm looking for a simple (no rod holders, no lights, no electronic boxes) aluminum t-top for my 1971 Mako 17-footer CC. What's that gonna run me?

                [email protected]
                \'72 Mako 17, Suzuki 140 FOR SALE[br]\'74 Mako 19B Project FOR SALE[br]Seabird 21 Project FOR SALE[br]San Juan 28 sailboat [br]Wake, VA[br][IMG]

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                • #9
                  jim since this topic is on aluminum/stainless.

                  Have you done any in stainless and what do you do about the metal changing a little when you weld it. IE Welds in Stainless seem to rust a bunch. I know that on small parts they can be electro polished to keep that from happening.

                  On the alum, the shops around here paint the welds. One of the shops here uses a air brush to paint them.

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                  • #10
                    []hi all mubik a tee would run 1300 for your 17 mako this a small boat ........but would still look great......we have done tees on boats as small as 15 ft.......and warthog....i try to stick with aluminum....although we have done very little stainless......we do paint the welds.....after you tig your joints the anodized is burnt off.........and yes i have seen stainless rust at the welds..................jim..... www.arctekmarine.com []
                    www.arctekmarine.com 203 982 6322 bethany,ct custom t tops /leaning posts/ arches/hardtops/towers etc

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                    • #11
                      They paint the welds around here as well. I said screw it and I'll just powdercoat the whole darn thing []

                      Strick
                      Oakley, California

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                      • #12
                        Powdercoating over painting is definately the way to go and much much more durable IMO.

                        I have customers that routinely screw up a powdercoat job, and to keep them happy and in my shop I agree, again and again after swearing to never do it again, to blast the parts. Some of this damn powdercoat you cant even blast of with 36 Aluminum Oxide and 120 PSI...it gets rubbery and changes color a bit but never comes off. Moral of the story...powdercoat is tough shit, particularly if the part is prepped right. Yes, the trick is finding the right sized oven.

                        Warthog, on the stainless you're talking pacivation, not really electropolishing. Its basically an acid etch to remove any carbon that has risen to the surface during the heat of welding...thats what rusts. I'm not an expert, but it seems to me you could pacivate (yes, usually a bath)a weld on a large part by dripping the acid on it. Of course, it has to go somewhere...messy, dont tell osha or the EPA but me thinks it could be done.
                        1990 261 T/2001 200 HPDIs[br]Basking Ridge/Mantoloking NJ[br]

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