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Updated wiring diagram, few questions

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  • Updated wiring diagram, few questions

    I have a few questions on this diagram.

    1. I'm planning on installing two ACR's right at the battery bank up in the cabin right next to the wiring panel. The blueseas website shows 6ga for anything under 50amps but I believe these old v4 motors only put out 10amps max. I assume 10ga and maybe 30amp fuses would be fine under normal circumstances, but the recommendations from blue seas are to cover current flow if the battery charges are significantly different, right?

    2. From each of the start batteries to their rear motor positive power posts I'm using 2/0. From the power posts to the motors would 2ga be fine or do I want that 2/0 all the way to the motor even if it's way oversized?

    3. Kind of in line with the question above, I only have one 2/0 going from the rear power post to the battery bank negative side. I plan on running 2ga from each motor ground to this rear post, instead of running two separate ground cables all the way back to the battery bank. Seeing as how I won't be starting both motors at once, this should be fine, right? (I recognize that a bad ground in the 2/0 line could disable both motors)


    1978 Chrysler 22 sailboat (sold)[br]1973 Catalina 22 sailboat (sold)[br]1983 Compac 23 sailboat (sold)[br]1973 Mako 17 (fishing machine)[br]1983 Mako 258 (current project)[br][br]

  • #2
    Just a few comments:

    Consider running separate negatives for each motor

    There seems to be a few busbars

    Some of the text is not clear

    Verify the cable runs to the bilge for pump controls and calculate Amp draw for each pump to determine proper wire gauge. (#10 or #12AWG minimum

    Consider using BEP cluster with VSRs for battery management

    Consider using duplex wire for controls

    Consider using LEDs for are lighting for reduce wiring requirements

    Use your motor harnesses which are more flexible rather than 2/0 cables and include trim and sensors, tach and ignition wires

    Hope this helps
    Keyman[br]Paoli, PA

    Comment


    • #3
      quote:


      Originally posted by keyman


      Just a few comments:

      Consider running separate negatives for each motor

      There seems to be a few busbars

      Some of the text is not clear

      Verify the cable runs to the bilge for pump controls and calculate Amp draw for each pump to determine proper wire gauge. (#10 or #12AWG minimum

      Consider using BEP cluster with VSRs for battery management

      Consider using duplex wire for controls

      Consider using LEDs for are lighting for reduce wiring requirements

      Use your motor harnesses which are more flexible rather than 2/0 cables and include trim and sensors, tach and ignition wires

      Hope this helps



      Yeah in hindsight I could probably have totally gone without those larger busbars, the + isn't even needed and the negative could have just been another power post to save room on the panel. I imagine I'll redo the panel down the road once I upgrade to the BEP anyways.
      1978 Chrysler 22 sailboat (sold)[br]1973 Catalina 22 sailboat (sold)[br]1983 Compac 23 sailboat (sold)[br]1973 Mako 17 (fishing machine)[br]1983 Mako 258 (current project)[br][br]

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:


        Originally posted by Davoboat


        quote:


        Originally posted by keyman


        Just a few comments:

        Consider running separate negatives for each motor

        There seems to be a few busbars

        Some of the text is not clear

        Verify the cable runs to the bilge for pump controls and calculate Amp draw for each pump to determine proper wire gauge. (#10 or #12AWG minimum

        Consider using BEP cluster with VSRs for battery management

        Consider using duplex wire for controls

        Consider using LEDs for are lighting for reduce wiring requirements

        Use your motor harnesses which are more flexible rather than 2/0 cables and include trim and sensors, tach and ignition wires

        Hope this helps



        Yeah in hindsight I could probably have totally gone without those larger busbars, the + isn't even needed and the negative could have just been another power post to save room on the panel. I imagine I'll redo the panel down the road once I upgrade to the BEP anyways.



        I looked briefly at your wiring and it looks like it going to be nice and neat. Having everything tight like that makes it increasingly difficult to trace a wire if you are having an issue or to change/add something. I suggest you do your BEP right out of the gate and add plenty of spare places on the bars to add new things.
        David, New Kent, Va[br]



        [br]Project Thread: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=21067[br]

        Comment

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